tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-53431712976498668452024-03-05T12:19:27.323+08:00LANE Boys RCUs two boys having fun with RC models! Articles of our models, DIY and hacking of RC related equipment, and whatever else comes along!LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.comBlogger40125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-60507894074397243282020-02-17T08:05:00.001+08:002020-02-17T08:05:35.608+08:00Sharkface RC plane kit from the Vintage Model Company<p>
A while ago we found the <a href="https://www.vintagemodelcompany.com/about-us.html">Vintage Model Company</a>, a balsa aircraft manufacturer in the UK, on YouTube. A shout-out to James for joining the company and promoting their work!
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We were looking for a small, simple to build kit that can use spare electronics we had. During our search we stumbled upon the Sharkface (also named Sharkfish), a 22" (560 mm) wing span motor plane originally designed in 1965 for <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FazJ1JnDjpY">Single Channel Radio Control</a>. The design has been updated for use of modern electronics and application of latest kit production methods such as laser cutting.
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The kit was sent out quickly and packaged well, surviving the long trip from the UK to Singapore without any damage of the contents. The wood quality and laser cutting on our kit was excellent. The kit came very complete, including all required push rods, clevises, and even original DuBro hardware. White tissue for covering is included, but we used iron-on covering film (Oracover light) left-overs from previous plane builds.
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The plan is very well printed and contains build instructions. Building is a breeze, it took us two weekends, with most of the time spent on covering and installing the radio gear. The fuselage is super simple as it has a rectangular shape. The wings are small and flimsy so great care must be taken, especially when sanding. Fit of all parts was superb. The lock for the hatch using spring steel is very old school yet simple, cheap and works very well; love it!
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The kit is designed around three Hitec HS-55 servos. We used HS-55 for Aileron and Rudder, and a KST DS113MG for Elevator (because that's what we had on hand). Even though technically the DS113MG is the same size as the HS-55, we couldn't use the DS113MG for the ailerons as the cable exit on the servo was at a different location and interfering with the limited space in the wing. It would have worked with a bit of trimming; just be aware if you are using non HS-55 servos.
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Our plane is powered by an EMAX 2204 / 2300KV (very old design) mini-quad motor and a Gemfan 5x4 prop. We run an old 25A ESC (max current is about 11A with that motor/prop). Battery is Zippy Compact 3S 1300, which when pushed all the way back balances the plane perfectly. AUW is 320g (Battery is 120g already). We get about 13 minutes flight time out of a battery.
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It flies like you would expect from a plane that was originally designed for single-channel RC. It is very stable for its size, but affected by gusts due to its low weight. Launch and landing is without drama. The old 2204 motor on 3S is OK power wise, but the plane is certainly not overpowered. It likes to fly fast rather than slow. At high bank angles it drops steeply; when you drag it through the corners with a lot of elevator it likes to climb and almost go into a stall. It can do loops and rolls, but 3D is certainly not what it wants to do.
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If I would build it again I would use stitched hinges instead of tape for the hinges. I may also build it rudder and elevator only; the ailerons are not really necessary for this design yet add a lot of complexity and weight.
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All in all: a great quality low-cost kit of a vintage design. As the say: a blast from the past!
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LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-32166663393397071182016-01-30T09:43:00.000+08:002016-01-30T09:46:28.923+08:00Tool Tip - Spray can handle<p>
Pushing on a spray can valve with your index finger can get tiring quickly. A spray gun handle with built-in trigger makes painting a RC body much more enjoyable.
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The handle show above is made by Krylon and is called the Can Gun. We purchased it at our local art and craft chain for less than the price of a Tamiya paint can. Similar items can be found from Chinese sellers on the usual websites.
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The handle clips onto the neck of the spray can. A plunger pushes on the spray can valve, operated by squeezing a trigger. The handle fits cans from many manufacturers, but only cans that have a small spray valve diameter.
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The handle makes the painting experience much more enjoyable as it takes away the strain of having to push onto the valve from the top. This allows better concentration on the paint application, and therefore leads to better paint jobs.
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If you use one can per year it is certainly not needed; but if you are sometimes painting four body shells in one session, it is a great tool to have.
</p>LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-71985520296083361992015-08-23T13:33:00.003+08:002021-05-25T15:44:37.708+08:00Tamiya TBLE-02S mod for LiPo cut-off<p>
In 2014 Tamiya changed their kit ESC to the TBLE-02S model. The speed controller features a low-voltage cut-off function, but it is set to 4.9V -- much too low for LiPo batteries that most RC enthusiasts use nowadays.
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However, by adding a single resistor we can modify the cut-off voltage to a LiPo-safe 6.0V or 6.3V.
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<blockquote style="color: red"><i><b>WARNING:</b> This and other DIY projects are purely "at your own risk". If you are at all uncomfortable or inexperienced working with electronics, please reconsider doing the job yourself.</i></blockquote>
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In the picture above you can see the modified TBLE-02S. Below the micro-controller in the left-top corner is a string of three resistors. The two right-most resistors form the voltage divider that reduces the battery voltage to a range that the micro-controller can measure.
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The right-most resistor measures 33 kOhm; its right terminal connects directly to the battery terminal of the ESC. The left resistor measures 10 kOhm and its left terminal connects to ground. The resistors are connected together, so they form a voltage divider. The center tap of the voltage divider connects to an ADC (Analog to Digital Converter) input of the micro-controller, and the software performs the actual cut-off.
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By default the cut-off voltage is 4.9V. In order to raise this voltage, we have to either increase the 33 kOhm resistor, or reduce the 10 kOhm resistor. It is generally speaking easier to reduce the resistor value of the bottom resistor (the 10 kOhm in our case) in the voltage divider, as we can simply put another resistor in parallel.
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To get a cut-off voltage of 6V, we can add a 33 kOhm resistor in parallel to the 10 kOhm resistor. Some people don't like to discharge their batteries all the way down to 6V; by using a 27 kOhm resistor in parallel to the existing 10 kOhm resistor they can achieve a cut-off voltage of 6.3V.
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Since the original 10 kOhm resistor in the ESC goes towards ground, we can mount our new 33 kOhm parallel resistor anywhere where ground is easily accessible. On the top of the PCB, just right of the micro-controller, is a ground test pin marked "G" (not visible in the photo as the resistor we added covers the label) that we can use.
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Note that the circuit board has been conformally coated; you need to scrape off the coating before you can apply solder. A lot of care has to be taken when soldering to one of the existing resistors.
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Once the new 33 kOhm resistor has been soldered onto the ground point, we can run a very thin wire between the voltage divider center tap and our newly added resistor.
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That's it; all done! It is actually easier than it was to <a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2013/08/tamiya-teu-104bk-mod-for-lipo-cut-off.html">modify the TEU-104BK</a>.
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Depending on your soldering skills it does not take more than 10 minutes to
modify the ESC. With the modification the ESC shuts off at just the right time
when your LiPo batteries deplete.
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<p>
One word of warning when disassembling the TBLE-02S: the case holds a tiny pin that pressed onto the push-button. This pin can easily fall out when the circuit board is removed from the housing. Don't lose it...
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<p><strong>Update 2016-10-15:</strong>The highlighted position in the photo below (click on the image to enlarge) is easier to solder the wire to. The highlighted pad connects to the resistors above.
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A few weeks back we were discussing with fellow RC enthusiasts how difficult it is to paint the eyes on the plastic driver figures, like the Wild Willy or the Rally Cockpit. Turns out help is at hand:
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/20443096472/in/album-72157656979048586/" title="P1100973"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/543/20443096472_dc769469c4.jpg" width="500" height="344" alt="P1100973"></a>
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A company named Archer Transfers (<a href="http://www.archertransfers.com">http://www.archertransfers.com</a>) makes water-slide decals for scale figures. The sheet comes with eyes in a variety of colors, for different scales. The third smallest eye works well for the 1:10 scale <a href="https://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-parts-70/body-set-misc--71111/rc-rally-car-cockpit-set-54491">Rally cockpit</a>; the larger ones would sure fit the <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/albums/72157655646936661">Mr. Willy</a>.
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/19830882553/in/album-72157656979048586/" title="P1100979"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/344/19830882553_51f772c7e8.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1100979"></a>
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<p>
If you never did any scale modeling -- like me -- then applying the eyes is not an easy task. The decals are tiny; after cutting them out you are left with a 1 x 2.5 mm ultra-thin decal. You will also need some decal setting solution (<a href="http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MD&Product_Code=MI-1&Category_Code=FINPROD">Micro Set</a>, <a href="http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87102mark_fit/index.htm">Tamiya Mark Fit</a> ...) as otherwise the decal will not stick down. Even though the decal application is as difficult as painting, the result is much better than what I could paint by hand:
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/20451784635/in/album-72157656979048586/" title="P1100972"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/400/20451784635_36625a8835.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1100972"></a>
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/20263683130/in/album-72157656979048586/" title="P1100970"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/441/20263683130_29467da09c.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1100970"></a>
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I managed to damage 3 decals while making those four heads, but I've never done any water-slide decals before. An experienced scale modeler will certainly do better.
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<p>
enjoy painting figures for RC cars!
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LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-57713087435058812262015-07-04T16:54:00.000+08:002015-07-04T16:57:00.791+08:00Tamiya LiPo holder for CC01 TA02 TA03<p>
Companies like LRP make rounded LiPo batteries which fit into the round cavity found in older Tamiya bathtub chassis like the TA01, TA02, TA03, CC01, DF01 or FF01. However, compared to NiMH stick packs the LiPo cases are about 5 mm longer. This means that the battery is sticking out too much and the battery holder that comes with the car no longer fits.
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We designed a 3D printable holder that solves that issue. For good measure we included a case for the popular 1-8S LiPo monitor -- often those old cars run speed controllers without LiPo cut-off.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihUkpLk8rlRe3qp9_aJuRdOQsgTyCvlLOrYpThhNONt34DJ_NT6fsKX7dRR-Yis-47BMUiPPgbTuzLD_UjN25n5aa7lkFLS9W-UGUzRwFNkHPdJL3o-gdUdXygrtU7mqgGCTeMzcZ5eav_/s1600/CC01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihUkpLk8rlRe3qp9_aJuRdOQsgTyCvlLOrYpThhNONt34DJ_NT6fsKX7dRR-Yis-47BMUiPPgbTuzLD_UjN25n5aa7lkFLS9W-UGUzRwFNkHPdJL3o-gdUdXygrtU7mqgGCTeMzcZ5eav_/s400/CC01.jpg" /></a></div>
<p align="center">
<em>A LRP LiPo stick pack in a CC01 chassis with our new holder with included LiPo monitor.</em>
</p>
<a name='more'></a>
<p>
The LiPo sticks out so much of the chassis that it covers about half of the holes of the battery holder. It is therefore not possible to use a holder that comes in from the bottom as the original design does.
</p>
<p>
Instead we designed the holder to be slotted in from the top. We used tabs on all three holes to secure the battery. The tabs had to be shaved by half where the battery is.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9-oxNaYh-heXI1XVvJEvUBHPB_aXiM411CwjUc9yso9ae39nvAuZ0Cajdu2LeqF09AKGjV99KLVnGf3C7LdfM8SS9xPwY4HiwYlTcZljoon1ktG3skpiH6afVW4XsQDs7slXPgcwAgXjl/s1600/P1100770.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9-oxNaYh-heXI1XVvJEvUBHPB_aXiM411CwjUc9yso9ae39nvAuZ0Cajdu2LeqF09AKGjV99KLVnGf3C7LdfM8SS9xPwY4HiwYlTcZljoon1ktG3skpiH6afVW4XsQDs7slXPgcwAgXjl/s400/P1100770.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
For 3D printing the part had to split into two as printers are unable to print overhangs without using nasty support structures. There are large mating surfaces that so that the parts can be glued easily and securely. The parts were printed in ABS and held together with Tamiya ABS cement.
</p>
<p>
The LiPo monitor sits on top of the battery holder. It has cut-outs for the display, the buzzers, and a hold to access the setup push-button on the back.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUGO49WMNNORrZiVNvfjzIP9KXOXYQswh3RcnmilJ4el1p1q9gEMGAVq1KJ0gjwT3zZZBlezBrcarxgFA1mPnYOAz-OPzC4jVfaYQaiD_c8Y7U9Xcoj0IlA9lwuds-mgivtF93SIHUUFgH/s1600/P1100761.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUGO49WMNNORrZiVNvfjzIP9KXOXYQswh3RcnmilJ4el1p1q9gEMGAVq1KJ0gjwT3zZZBlezBrcarxgFA1mPnYOAz-OPzC4jVfaYQaiD_c8Y7U9Xcoj0IlA9lwuds-mgivtF93SIHUUFgH/s400/P1100761.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
A "-" marker was added to the plastic as to indicate how to connect the balancing cable to the battery monitor.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhntxi23v98amjlJwxedKF43eZ0QfIIiyQSZ7frAT4eerS5VP6dCmGxyJzEPzYS5RLwlkKwhS3zXvXpZWNySqW_zKi-RWpuT3jC77UZYect6KVGbTAzL9RRHbJK-98oKLBGRd2SpnM6MC4J/s1600/P1100760.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhntxi23v98amjlJwxedKF43eZ0QfIIiyQSZ7frAT4eerS5VP6dCmGxyJzEPzYS5RLwlkKwhS3zXvXpZWNySqW_zKi-RWpuT3jC77UZYect6KVGbTAzL9RRHbJK-98oKLBGRd2SpnM6MC4J/s400/P1100760.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
We also added clips left and right to the end of the battery monitor case to fasten battery cables or other wires.
</p>
<p>
The battery holder works well with the old bathtub chassis. We tested it on a CC01, TA01/2, DF01, FF01, TA03F and TA03RS.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOW5mPDPfNxV9LnwqQfMut81cHIQXppcoH4ikbqA5iojU4BsLQ-4Oe8MsJJrGW-qGY_-jZQdLWTTBz6r-qO-Whp3iQ35XWImRSZgyNcN4epUJ7POTCob9zF_wVAvHjRXSn8KLMIdlnmM71/s1600/CC01-bottom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOW5mPDPfNxV9LnwqQfMut81cHIQXppcoH4ikbqA5iojU4BsLQ-4Oe8MsJJrGW-qGY_-jZQdLWTTBz6r-qO-Whp3iQ35XWImRSZgyNcN4epUJ7POTCob9zF_wVAvHjRXSn8KLMIdlnmM71/s400/CC01-bottom.jpg" /></a></div><p align="center">
<em>CC01 (Unimog), bottom view</em>
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH3ZDXZwGXKSo0ifbixmKPNVw3jksuhCe3Wm0hyZbtUy_DTFkHcn2WUrExjdQzbFg_Tshmkg88A4ra8OPXQxBu5XFGERUtpYiDnUjkcMf1-Q881PbwXG6N2igRF7cErCNfjVEd1-_O6mov/s1600/DF01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH3ZDXZwGXKSo0ifbixmKPNVw3jksuhCe3Wm0hyZbtUy_DTFkHcn2WUrExjdQzbFg_Tshmkg88A4ra8OPXQxBu5XFGERUtpYiDnUjkcMf1-Q881PbwXG6N2igRF7cErCNfjVEd1-_O6mov/s400/DF01.jpg" /></a></div>
<p align="center">
<em>DF01 M1025 Hummer chassis</em>
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr9b90j7Fhjpd-N1ncEvchykjuVyGSEFYFyf026NbXzp79I2AwIEmFmSxzFtv9OFbtkULjiYCNyuyCUR3FnTgZ3NK1bUleVodNXt5_LJm4qWoCesVUgiuMjzJ6fd_ApfWvh8bSECCe5U9J/s1600/FF01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr9b90j7Fhjpd-N1ncEvchykjuVyGSEFYFyf026NbXzp79I2AwIEmFmSxzFtv9OFbtkULjiYCNyuyCUR3FnTgZ3NK1bUleVodNXt5_LJm4qWoCesVUgiuMjzJ6fd_ApfWvh8bSECCe5U9J/s400/FF01.jpg" /></a></div>
<p align="center">
<em>FF01</em>
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOOonk06cp2pCIardFMxnIICU4ALSexUntti-zaGCsiLFAfrcRkeMQyHSSl0MCDnTn39IoRon2OP3q8zH6hFbeCXyLYc14LvFpBcY7PX6tJA_f7sRAIBNodKciIoLEtMG3BtItelI1wiqF/s1600/TA03F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOOonk06cp2pCIardFMxnIICU4ALSexUntti-zaGCsiLFAfrcRkeMQyHSSl0MCDnTn39IoRon2OP3q8zH6hFbeCXyLYc14LvFpBcY7PX6tJA_f7sRAIBNodKciIoLEtMG3BtItelI1wiqF/s400/TA03F.jpg" /></a></div>
<p align="center">
<em>TA03F chassis</em>
</p>
<p>
If you want to build your own you can <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:910301">find all source files and STL files for 3D printing on Thingiverse</a>.
</p>
<p>
If you don't have a 3D printer, don't despair. Have a look around; likely one of your friends or colleagues has one. Or your local library. Or a Maker-club near-by. If that fails you can find 3D printing services on the Internet such as <a href="https://www.3dhubs.com/">3D-Hubs</a>.
</p>
<p>
have a fun with those old chassis!
</p>
LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-55542365642469495972015-06-07T07:36:00.001+08:002021-05-25T15:46:29.791+08:00Bed-mobile - 3D printed RC bed on TT02 chassis<p>
The LANE Boys recently acquired a <a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2015/03/starting-on-3d-printed-light-buckets.html">3D printer</a>. Beside printing spare parts and accessories, why not print a body shell?
</p>
<p>
A few years ago we were amused by the motorized furniture creations of <a href="http://www.cummfybanana.co.uk/">Edd China</a>. So we decided to build this:
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18540449625" title="P1090456 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8866/18540449625_9386188e76.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090456"></a>
</p>
<a name='more'></a>
<p>
The motorized bed was chosen as it is a simple structure, and has the right shape to fit a standard RC chassis. We made ours to fit a Tamiya TT02.
</p>
<p>
We designed the model using <a href="http://www.openscad.org/">OpenSCAD</a>, an Open Source software for creating solid 3D CAD objects. All elements were modeled with 3D printing in mind from the go, especially considering that our printer has a small print volume of 15 cm cubed.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDF21Nkg5ar0GS2To6xQLtK-_i1eI_CrIn90xMjpy4Hk3GoKLBkYegw5KCq0NnTnza6eqg-I7ZGBWEoYuGp_8yJgkQqwfzKS_8wSECLUkm0BDk-GL3jC56_Szp1H4-m0FXIvUnePQ03ZOE/s1600/OpenSCAD-screenshot.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDF21Nkg5ar0GS2To6xQLtK-_i1eI_CrIn90xMjpy4Hk3GoKLBkYegw5KCq0NnTnza6eqg-I7ZGBWEoYuGp_8yJgkQqwfzKS_8wSECLUkm0BDk-GL3jC56_Szp1H4-m0FXIvUnePQ03ZOE/s500/OpenSCAD-screenshot.png" /></a></div>
<p>
The bed is constructed around a 2 mm thick plate of acrylic from the local hobby shop. The plate was cut to measure 390 x 230 mm. The dimensions were chosen to fit the TT02 chassis, ensuring enough clearance for suspension travel and steering of the wheels. The rest of the bed parts were all 3D printed in HIPS.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/17917746264" title="P1090195 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/400/17917746264_cf6730986a.jpg" width="500" height="382" alt="P1090195"></a>
</p>
<p>
Since all sides of the bed are larger than the print area of our printer, they had to be printed in sections and glued together. To achieve good strength we added slots into the parts and printed tabs.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18542407051" title="P1090204 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/381/18542407051_cbbe3cec00.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090204"></a>
</p>
<p>
We then used Tamiya cement to glue the parts together. The white parts are the mounting pieces that connects the side walls to the bed plate.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18352670308" title="P1090208 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8829/18352670308_fb4a4ca13a.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="P1090208"></a>
</p>
<p>
The bed sides where then painted to give them a bit of a wooden look and fastened to the acrylic bed plate with 2 mm self tapping screws.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18352669648" title="P1090314 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/394/18352669648_ff31450654.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090314"></a>
</p>
<p>
In order to be road legal, our bed-mobile needed to have a license plate and lights. We used spare light fittings from a Axial light kit we had at home. To conceal the back of the light fixtures, LEDs and wiring, we printed covers. The covers for the front lights also received a pole to mount the head lamps on.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18354257349" title="P1090317 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8864/18354257349_6d0355af7c.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090317"></a>
</p>
<p>
This pole had a tiny hole running through it so that we could run wires, and a recess for the M2 mounting screw of the head lamp.<br/>
All this would be tricky to do with scratch building, but was extremely easy to do with 3D modelling.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18354256569" title="P1090324 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/379/18354256569_fed58515ae.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1090324"></a>
</p>
<p>
As always, we were using enamel-coated wire to supply power to the LEDs.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18514037356" title="P1090331 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8883/18514037356_19b164f2d5.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090331"></a>
</p>
<p>
The license plate housing with integrated light was printed in high quality as the wall thickness is only 0.5 mm in some areas. A tiny SMD LED is used to provide illumination.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/17917742434" title="P1090334 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8895/17917742434_794e4c9567.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1090334"></a>
</p>
<p>
The wires for the LED are concealed in a tube that was modeled into the right rear end piece of the bed. It was a bit fiddly to get the wires through, but with a bit of persistence it worked.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/17919755083" title="P1090339 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/421/17919755083_8887c67836.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090339"></a>
</p>
<p>
On the inside the wires exit between the indicator and tail/brake light.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18514036056" title="P1090340 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/431/18514036056_395af39814.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090340"></a>
</p>
<p>
On the outside the wire exits right behind the light fixture of the license plate.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18352666108" title="P1090346 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/517/18352666108_90440b90b4.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1090346"></a>
</p>
<p>
The license plate was secured with a drop of Shoe Goo. A point of improvement is to make the light housing slightly thicker, and/or paint the inside black, because currently the LED is so bright that it shines through the plastic. Looks great anyway!
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18352747930" title="P1090348 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/332/18352747930_3cc61128f4.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090348"></a>
</p>
<p>
The <a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2013/09/diy-rc-light-controller-update.html">light controller</a> was mounted on the bottom of the bed plate, close to where the receiver sits on the chassis.<br/>
This way the cable to the receiver can be very short. Wiring the LEDs was extremely easy.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18540470515" title="P1090351 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/482/18540470515_d19c0afb11.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090351"></a>
</p>
<p>
Time to test the lights: all working!
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18536003322" title="P1090355 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/439/18536003322_029bc4723f.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090355"></a>
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18352747270" title="P1090357 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/320/18352747270_87c0349c2c.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090357"></a>
</p>
<p>
We could now secure the light covers front and rear with a drop of Shoe Goo.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18540469515" title="P1090362 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/393/18540469515_9fa58dabb8.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090362"></a>
</p>
<p>
The bed frame was now finished, so it was time to make it usable for its purpose. We had a male doll that we bought originally for our <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/sets/72157640999134924">G-Made Sawback</a> but was too large. It was a perfect scale for the bed however.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18536002562" title="P1090366 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/311/18536002562_42a7576150.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1090366"></a>
</p>
<p>
Out came the sewing machine we bought during our <a href="http://sgcrawlers.forumotion.com/t921-lane-boys-rc-s-tamiya-xr311-build">XR311 build</a>. An old bed sheet was sacrificed as source of material.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18352746390" title="P1090375 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/292/18352746390_72a510f2fa.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090375"></a>
</p>
<p>
Originally we thought that we make the mattress from foam, covered with cloth. But that led to stability and mounting issues, so we decided to print it in 3D and cover it.<br/>
The mattress had to be split into six pieces for printing.<br/>
The mattress piece adds quite some weight to the finished model. Should we build it again we would probably add holes and use less in-fill to get it lighter.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18352663878" title="P1090381 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/342/18352663878_00387904ee.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090381"></a>
</p>
<p>
With all the cut-outs and mounting support designed into the mattress shape, the fit was perfect. We had decided to use magnets to secure the mattress to the bed frame, as well as the pillows and blanket to the mattress.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/17919751563" title="P1090394 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/315/17919751563_4eb0417250.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1090394"></a>
</p>
<p>
The figure is strapped down with an elastic hair band. With only one band it is very secure, and it is easy to remove for transport.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/17919751353" title="P1090397 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8882/17919751353_99e0984dce.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090397"></a>
</p>
<p>
Now all the cloth needed to be installed. We started with the skirt that hides the chassis.<br/>
The skirt was made from a 6.5 cm wide strip of fabric, measuring a whopping 2 m in length. Every 3 cm a fold was hand-sewed to create a wavy curtain effect.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18540466915" title="P1090405 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8846/18540466915_40a44100c7.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1090405"></a>
</p>
<p>
Holes were punched into the skirt; pilot-drill holes were placed at the correct locations, and 2 mm self tapping screws with washers hold the skirt in place in regular intervals.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18542399281" title="P1090407 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8865/18542399281_8fedf87fcc.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090407"></a>
</p>
<p>
The finished skirt looks great and conceals the chassis well, without impacting function or skidding on the ground.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18540466215" title="P1090412 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8898/18540466215_a859733868.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1090412"></a>
</p>
<p>
A pillow cover was sacrificed for the mattress. We had put a groove in place on the underside of the mattress where the cloth could be fastened to the support structure.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18352660568" title="P1090418 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/498/18352660568_eaa807ce69.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090418"></a>
</p>
<p>
To secure the cloth we used short strips of filaments which are springy and clamp the cloth nicely, yet allow for easy removal if needed.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18354280479" title="P1090421 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/332/18354280479_680f44793e.jpg" width="500" height="293" alt="P1090421"></a>
</p>
<p>
The mattress fits well. Time to assemble everything!
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18540450025" title="P1090426 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8872/18540450025_5d47c00c37.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090426"></a>
</p>
<p>
Here is the finished mobile bed:
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18540449625" title="P1090456 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8866/18540449625_9386188e76.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090456"></a>
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18542378301" title="P1090477 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/313/18542378301_cb8b5ed950.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1090477"></a>
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/18354230529" title="P1090471 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/559/18354230529_b8e3e6bdda.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1090471"></a>
</p>
<p>
The whole project took us about one month from start to finish, including 3D design. The total print time was approximately 33 hours, out of which 16 hours was for the mattress parts alone.<br/>
This time does not include test pieces and failed prints (mostly due to our inexperience and choosing wrong settings).
</p>
<p>
Sure, one could easily make such a simple structure from scratch using wood or other materials, but that was not the point. It was a learning experience. And most of all: <em>tremendous fun!</em>
</p>
<p>
In case you want to build your own, all CAD files are available on <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:865465">Thingiverse for download</a>.
</p>
<p>
Go and make something!
</p>
LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-40042908404575543772015-03-24T15:02:00.000+08:002015-03-24T15:02:50.335+08:00Using Tamiya TS paint on polycarbonate<p>
Tamiya has a good range of colours for polycarbonate named PS. But sometimes a RC project demands a specific tone that is not available. What to do?
</p>
<p>
Using our favourite search engine revealed that it is possible to spray other types of paint over PS-55 Flat Clear. We gave it a try and the results was excellent.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRY7j3EddbvFO60crTcRRYWn0-etWRuXzxILg9heTaCrv4TmTl6shNP1sK4_5kfvmpI4MANC9MgZcNzde58EYH-L-waGE6t31nN33Yr0hujuTrNQ1F-r12fxTuJ9ChjowErrwrA47dgmZN/s1600/P1080705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRY7j3EddbvFO60crTcRRYWn0-etWRuXzxILg9heTaCrv4TmTl6shNP1sK4_5kfvmpI4MANC9MgZcNzde58EYH-L-waGE6t31nN33Yr0hujuTrNQ1F-r12fxTuJ9ChjowErrwrA47dgmZN/s320/P1080705.jpg" /></a></div>
<a name='more'></a>
<p>
We are currently working on a Tamiya Mercedes Benz DTM where the main body colour is supposed to be a bright shade of grey, almost white. The manual recommends mixing a little bit of PC-5 black into PC-1 white. The PC range of colours is long discontinued, so that was not an option.
</p>
<p>
Tamiya usually releases the same car as scale model kit. The instructions for the Mercedes stated to use Tamiya AS-20 "Insignia white". Our understanding is that the AS range is a variant of the TS plastic spray range, specially formulated for model aircraft.
</p>
<p>
Painting TS paint straight on Polycarbonate will not adhere properly. It may look fine at first, but over times the paint may flake off.
</p>
<p>
The trick is to first paint the clear body shell with a thin coat of PS-55 flat clear. This provides a slightly rough adhesive surface for the TS (or AS) paint to stick.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRY7j3EddbvFO60crTcRRYWn0-etWRuXzxILg9heTaCrv4TmTl6shNP1sK4_5kfvmpI4MANC9MgZcNzde58EYH-L-waGE6t31nN33Yr0hujuTrNQ1F-r12fxTuJ9ChjowErrwrA47dgmZN/s1600/P1080705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRY7j3EddbvFO60crTcRRYWn0-etWRuXzxILg9heTaCrv4TmTl6shNP1sK4_5kfvmpI4MANC9MgZcNzde58EYH-L-waGE6t31nN33Yr0hujuTrNQ1F-r12fxTuJ9ChjowErrwrA47dgmZN/s320/P1080705.jpg" /></a>
<br/><em>left: PS-55 flat clear with two coats of AS-20 Insignia White; right: three coats of PS-1 white</em>
</div>
<p>
Before risking a semi-vintage body shell to the process, we made a test on a cut-off piece. The results were extremely promising: the AS paint adhered very well, even when bending, knocking and abusing the Polycarbonate as it would in a crash. Furthermore, the AS paint was more opaque than the standard PS-1 white so only two coats are needed for perfect covering.
</p>
<p>
Even though the AS paint gives a flat finished, the resulting paint is still glossy on the outside as the Polycarbonate material is what gives RC car shells the shiny look. If you look at the inside of a PS painted body shell, it is flat too.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig6Yv_YktG3qYhjKUsDbvcc9WnR1DtHnIDmQEZMc1rdYnZmfxDulb1ipv71zfXHfCZQcEhZ1n6w6jDRjX0xS1PZjNkIkVgHRTF1qQgUcqrPPrNZwDlL-YxxNUBIXM2-9jf8GgEjNI4RNLk/s1600/P1080912.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig6Yv_YktG3qYhjKUsDbvcc9WnR1DtHnIDmQEZMc1rdYnZmfxDulb1ipv71zfXHfCZQcEhZ1n6w6jDRjX0xS1PZjNkIkVgHRTF1qQgUcqrPPrNZwDlL-YxxNUBIXM2-9jf8GgEjNI4RNLk/s320/P1080912.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
The photo above shows the painted Mercedes body shell. The boot lid is PS-1 white, the main body colour AS-20. Not a big difference, but an important one to achieve a scale look of the car.
</p>
<p>
happy painting!
</p>
LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-17512165235655790852015-03-21T21:31:00.000+08:002015-03-21T21:40:35.049+08:00Tamiya M01 3D printed battery holder<p>
Last year we bought second hand Tamiya M01 and M02 cars. Both cars were in excellent condition. However, on both car the plate that secures the battery was missing.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdomPVDsmqX0NR0b3pyMPOpWqOrOax6lG7WMpI6CmlezqEP1VJb9ifIl54Ferx3IC_pmAnU8PtgosC5caEFrgVCB8QNCxz-Jjsc__svSejTBKIbY2y_KlcZDuA743GOy6g0snMWC5DxZeS/s1600/P1080863.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdomPVDsmqX0NR0b3pyMPOpWqOrOax6lG7WMpI6CmlezqEP1VJb9ifIl54Ferx3IC_pmAnU8PtgosC5caEFrgVCB8QNCxz-Jjsc__svSejTBKIbY2y_KlcZDuA743GOy6g0snMWC5DxZeS/s320/P1080863.jpg" /></a></div>
<a name='more'></a>
<p>
The plate is a very simple piece. The same plate design is used left and right. On the right side the plate is screwed down, while on the left side it is secured with a large body clip so that the battery can be changed quickly.
</p>
<p>
Spare parts for the M01 and M02 are already very rare. On eBay you can find the odd sprue for sale; for ridicolous prices.
</p>
<p>
Instead of parting with a lot of money, we made replacement plates from a scrap piece of plastic. It worked, and it looked alright.
</p>
<p>
But now we got a 3D printer, so we can do better. The shape was very easy to reconstruct. We used <a href="http://www.openscad.org">OpenSCAD</a>, which is software for creating solid 3D CAD models. It is something like a 3D-compiler that reads in a script file that describes the object and renders the 3D model from this script file. This is very similar to software development, so we felt right at home.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4UJsE1LmRCAbMH6oxK8at1U_ydrfsRUbGmH8zzh7JFN0YfXGDkktWQ5dUrMRWQjDV54-p21Ngh4df9KuXOxPe_251slR-X1G2Xh4dBgo3oU1RoCQYn_PRFeuzwBDNSYHf8CE2ny_KVR1q/s1600/P1080868.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4UJsE1LmRCAbMH6oxK8at1U_ydrfsRUbGmH8zzh7JFN0YfXGDkktWQ5dUrMRWQjDV54-p21Ngh4df9KuXOxPe_251slR-X1G2Xh4dBgo3oU1RoCQYn_PRFeuzwBDNSYHf8CE2ny_KVR1q/s320/P1080868.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
The battery end plate is made from cubes and cylinders. We used calipers to measure the original plate and used the data in our OpenSCAD model.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP14eSoi5sZQ9wWvzNCSxOWT4g-w-cbB3x2sN1r_HpOMiXxSDEztyPZTy9LOg5T64QkSleUoLPTyiQz_NH-wFU2PK-JwrNP73BIxpqn2NiP5dNojhBWpb8Ary_hi08XaWm43HYZ7Xd8Ct3/s1600/P1080869.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP14eSoi5sZQ9wWvzNCSxOWT4g-w-cbB3x2sN1r_HpOMiXxSDEztyPZTy9LOg5T64QkSleUoLPTyiQz_NH-wFU2PK-JwrNP73BIxpqn2NiP5dNojhBWpb8Ary_hi08XaWm43HYZ7Xd8Ct3/s320/P1080869.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
We printed the part in black ABS. Printing two parts in the "fine" quality setting of our printer took 28 minutes. We had to clean-up the holes a bit but for the rest the parts fit perfectly.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTFnSfJE_ehkqzHXLhkQMC-dsvQVv2eXsIzEp3LOjhmwdJkuvbvKz6ZV1-Sps9XGD0hi-d7t3-cK9Y-zCRwdRmSZS0-Yc3-KIFWbY1jvJjGlxRSSCv0tBmAbLYeGVpNPHcfYf6f5HmcD1J/s1600/P1080873.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTFnSfJE_ehkqzHXLhkQMC-dsvQVv2eXsIzEp3LOjhmwdJkuvbvKz6ZV1-Sps9XGD0hi-d7t3-cK9Y-zCRwdRmSZS0-Yc3-KIFWbY1jvJjGlxRSSCv0tBmAbLYeGVpNPHcfYf6f5HmcD1J/s320/P1080873.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
Due to the surface structure created by the 3D printing process, the part does not look 100% original. But it is better than the handmade piece we used earlier.
</p>
<p>
In case you want to make your own, we made the design available for <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:733830">download at Thingiverse</a>.
</p>
<p>
have a fun RC car restoration!
</p>
LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-6711636034699972742015-03-19T10:26:00.001+08:002015-03-19T10:26:00.815+08:00Starting on 3D printed light buckets for RC cars<p>
After long consideration, the LANE Boys finally got a 3D printer. One of the applications we had in mind is printing custom light buckets for RC cars. The first results are very promising.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPQOeQXd24KMqcCU4PSdaxr-dNnFQhrAINPdMe5mLwkS2cQw800jRej4P7ulQDOuCocGNhRJrbBTu7N_pep7c5wdZh4FD9iWdoHuAthjDBE_LCxqb3pJnQCmwtOyBnqU5JLGxqfJgbbJ2J/s1600/01-r34-light-buckets-top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPQOeQXd24KMqcCU4PSdaxr-dNnFQhrAINPdMe5mLwkS2cQw800jRej4P7ulQDOuCocGNhRJrbBTu7N_pep7c5wdZh4FD9iWdoHuAthjDBE_LCxqb3pJnQCmwtOyBnqU5JLGxqfJgbbJ2J/s400/01-r34-light-buckets-top.jpg" /></a></div>
<a name='more'></a>
<p>
The 3D printer market is changing rapidly. The printer we have chosen is the <a href="https://www.lulzbot.com/products/lulzbot-mini-3d-printer">LulzBot Mini</a>. It is an open source design, very nicely built, compact, prints quickly and is well priced.<br/>
There are printers with a much larger print volume, there are cheaper printers, there are printers with a better print quality -- but we felt that the LulzBot Mini has the combination of features that is right for us.
</p>
<p>
Our printer was shipped from a warehouse in the UK. It was ordered Thursday morning Singapore time, and arrived Tuesday afternoon.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghKTjmVUFaLkc4gQP0UzFpFH7VFAXXS3cUPG28_l6HpDCuf_e8PpTQ7kcHMxqoypsThgEFzfHOM76BOlmvV0KUN_CoWakTqWulJJx9uWX0r0MWSOnjy-IUA6b4bmCg9I-3swfU-ePab8o-/s1600/02-lulzbot-mini.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghKTjmVUFaLkc4gQP0UzFpFH7VFAXXS3cUPG28_l6HpDCuf_e8PpTQ7kcHMxqoypsThgEFzfHOM76BOlmvV0KUN_CoWakTqWulJJx9uWX0r0MWSOnjy-IUA6b4bmCg9I-3swfU-ePab8o-/s400/02-lulzbot-mini.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
The most impressive part so far was the out-of-the box experience: It took only 15 minutes from opening the box until we had the first print going. And that included installing software!
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtBZtsyS9HWMbR8VhU6odHMG7PZ74VgHQkR8PNcxSJzmfqjHJKZEgE2SIjn1jZuljaGxSfdFz_vSt82Ut1DqDoZyjPaxQGnomYe5-4K6QA946Q2caRJQpJqEBwN09NzfoUORAjUVJ939oI/s1600/03-closeup-printing-roctopus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtBZtsyS9HWMbR8VhU6odHMG7PZ74VgHQkR8PNcxSJzmfqjHJKZEgE2SIjn1jZuljaGxSfdFz_vSt82Ut1DqDoZyjPaxQGnomYe5-4K6QA946Q2caRJQpJqEBwN09NzfoUORAjUVJ939oI/s400/03-closeup-printing-roctopus.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
We recently started equipping RC cars with lights that were not foreseen to have them installed. We had to build light buckets from pieces of styrene. This is fiddly and time consuming work. It is hard to take measurements from the polycarbonate body shell, and it is hard to make tiny pieces from sheets of plastic. A set of light buckets took usually a whole Saturday afternoon to build.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHoos7nQ5XL-r5E0HdIu8De6LTdQhJ1Td1jlCKAJOQCAqPvjsfir-eu61DMLtvCF3O1-_jhs2VVkVO9zH5I5dLklKZgtxJxZoDaqXkgZ36jl8mtuxcPLFYoDYedcHKYSPBmE00Y26RRoP1/s1600/04-r34-light-buckets-front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHoos7nQ5XL-r5E0HdIu8De6LTdQhJ1Td1jlCKAJOQCAqPvjsfir-eu61DMLtvCF3O1-_jhs2VVkVO9zH5I5dLklKZgtxJxZoDaqXkgZ36jl8mtuxcPLFYoDYedcHKYSPBmE00Y26RRoP1/s400/04-r34-light-buckets-front.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
Well, things are different now. The light buckets in the image above are for a Tamiya Nissan GT-R R34 body shell. While this car comes with light buckets for the front and rear lights, the client wanted also lights for the front fog lamps, the rear reversing/fog lamp and the 3rd light bucket.
</p>
<p>
The shapes are very simple in this case and it would have been no issue making them from scratch by hand. However, with the 3D printer <em>all</em> of the light cases above were done in a single evening -- and that includes the 3D design. For the front fog lamp and the combined reversing/fog rear light we even went through two iterations to ensure they fit perfectly.
</p>
<p>
A single print took between 11 and 24 minutes, depending on size of the light bucket and the print quality setting we chose. While the printer is doing its thing we could work already on the next project, making the whole process very efficient.
</p>
<p>
We are using HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene), which is basically the same material that the light buckets in RC kits are made from. The Tamiya cement works perfectly in case gluing is required.
</p>
<p>
Given that we had no prior experience in 3D design and printing, we are extremely pleased with the result. There is of course a lot more to learn, but things can only get better from here. We have already a long list of items we want to design and print...
</p>
<p>So ... what shall we print next?</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHU0XX6rh203jruDmG1S2K9JLr7hTvEnj3VAXoSoDErl3p6EgNOMolR3oPTVjDW8KEVMxqLK_13mHB6v3LaqFVnBWxKhfOGAaFKC7PLiXv76KE38RS4592dfYNN1_OR31sfmQJ9HjUk-cp/s1600/05-jerry-can-front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHU0XX6rh203jruDmG1S2K9JLr7hTvEnj3VAXoSoDErl3p6EgNOMolR3oPTVjDW8KEVMxqLK_13mHB6v3LaqFVnBWxKhfOGAaFKC7PLiXv76KE38RS4592dfYNN1_OR31sfmQJ9HjUk-cp/s400/05-jerry-can-front.jpg" /></a></div>
LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-77669923191773948032015-02-22T09:10:00.003+08:002021-05-25T15:43:26.937+08:00Bug-eyed Subaru<p>
Recently we tried to sell a newly built <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/sets/72157650032753529/">Tamiya TT02 Lexus RC F Eneos Sustina</a>. That did not go as well as planned; it took quite some time and we had to sell the car in pieces.
</p>
<p>
However, the photos I posted along with the ad led to someone contacting me, asking whether I'd be interested in painting a body shell and installing lights. My first client <smile>.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/16563784696" title="Click to enlarge"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8580/16563784696_f72834aeee.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1080541"></a>
</p>
<a name='more'></a>
<p>
This is a Tamiya Subaru Impreza WRC 2001 Prototype, hence there are no race numbers and only a rudimentary set of decals on the car. As usual, Tamiya made an excellent job with the realism of this shell when compared to reference photos that can be found on the Internet.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/16402745510" title="Click to enlarge"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7450/16402745510_6383e44fb8.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1080549"></a>
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/16402547398" title="Click to enlarge"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7314/16402547398_eed51be465.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1080575"></a>
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/16589775105" title="Click to enlarge"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8605/16589775105_3524a27e7a.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1080582"></a>
</p>
<p>
This car does not have a light buckets, so we had to make our own. First we made a sample from cardboard to get the size correct. A vector drawing program was used to create a clean drawing on the computer. The light buckets were built from Styrene. The back piece where the LEDs sit in is 1 mm thick, the walls are 0.5 mm thick.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/16563790356" title="Click to enlarge"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7313/16563790356_0be05c306e.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1080375"></a>
</p>
<p>
To trace the curves of the body we discovered an excellent method: take a piece of electronics solder and wrap it around the curve you want to transfer. The solder is extremely flexible and does not spring back. Put the bent solder onto a piece of paper and gently trace with a pencil. Works really well!
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/16402554408" title="Click to enlarge"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8595/16402554408_a4f441264a.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1080386"></a>
</p>
<p>
A few evenings of craft work and the custom buckets fit nicely. Later this year we will buy a 3D printer, which will make things easier.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/15967615624" title="Click to enlarge"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8611/15967615624_60f0ebed66.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1080399"></a>
</p>
<p>
A piece of strip-board on the back was used to hold the LEDs and allow to attach the wiring.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/16402749950" title="Click to enlarge"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7341/16402749950_7c44a361b9.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1080422"></a>
</p>
<p>
Lots of effort went into this shell: The bottom of the spoiler was painted black instead of applying stickers; All grills were kept transparent to allow the client to put plastic scale radiators behind; Liquid mask was used for the head lamps.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/16589121232" title="Click to enlarge"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7393/16589121232_5f8054f9b3.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1080429"></a>
</p>
<p>
Nothing nicer than a freshly painted piece of polycarbonate!
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/15967613424" title="Click to enlarge"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7348/15967613424_bba8500472.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1080448"></a>
</p>
<p>
The masking worked reasonably well, defects are hardly visible since both colors are dark. The result is extremely nice in my not-so-humble opinion.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/16402551288" title="Click to enlarge"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7402/16402551288_699e31b39e.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1080462"></a>
</p>
<p>
To light up the indicators in the fender, we butt-soldered a tiny orange SMD LED onto a piece of strip-board. The strip board was secured with a drop of Shoe Goo. The LED shines through the sticker that came with the kit. A hole was masked out where the LED emits light.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/16402549088" title="Click to enlarge"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7288/16402549088_625f364538.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1080521"></a>
</p>
<p>
The body shell was a spare part that was stored improperly for a long time and had a crack below the right door. Shoe Goo and a scrap piece of Lexan fixed that.
<br/>
The wire harness was made from enamel wire, twisted together with a hand drill. The Enamel coating melts at 400 degrees C, so you can use your soldering iron to strip it off and then solder the bare wire to the LEDs. Very easy to do, very tidy, very simple.
<br/>
Thin Enamel wire, sometimes also referred to as <em>magnet wire</em>, can be recycled from loudspeakers, relais or transformers found in switch-mode power supplies.
</p>
<p>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/16402744140" title="Click to enlarge"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7321/16402744140_b5dbd17274.jpg" width="500" height="493" alt="P1080597"></a>
</p>
<p>
When everything was done, we painted the wires black to make them disappear. We also made a craft-paper cover for the light buckets. It makes the back of the light buckets look tidy and seals off any leaking light.
</p>
<p>
The client mentioned that this shell will most likely never be run. So we programmed the <a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.sg/2013/09/diy-rc-light-controller-update.html">light controller</a> to simulate driving, switching the lights on/off at random time. All that's needed is a 1-cell LiPo (I use old 18650 cells recycled from damaged laptop battery packs; works for more than 6 hours on one charge).
<br/>
When the <a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.sg/2013/09/diy-rc-light-controller-update.html">light controller</a> doesn't detect a receiver signal for five seconds, it switches into <em>demo mode</em>. If you connect a RC system, the light controller works as usual with realistic brake/indicators/reversing lights and switchable head lamps and hazard lights.
<br/>
The client requested one of the light patterns being like a F1 safety car (head lamps and rear lamps alternately flashing), so we added that too.
</p>
<p>
For many more photos please visit our Flickr album at <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/sets/72157650517751310/">https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/sets/72157650517751310/</a>
</p>
<p>On to the next project!
</p>LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-85308834671592425832014-12-28T14:20:00.001+08:002021-05-25T15:41:40.914+08:00Build your own RC receiver<p>
Its always fun learning something new. Ever since we got a 2.4 GHz RC system a few years ago, I wanted to understand how these things actually work. How do they send data over the air? What components are used?
<br/>
Well, in the last months we finally got around digging into it. And it turned out that it is a rather simple affair. So we built our own RC receivers.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/16125370325" title="RX DIY with HKR3000 and XR3100 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8623/16125370325_e27a67a8c8.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="RX DIY with HKR3000 and XR3100"></a>
<br/>
<i>The HobbyKing HKR3000 and XR3100 receivers along with two different versions of compatible, home-brew receivers.</i>
</p>
<a name='more'></a>
<p>
The HobbyKing system uses RF technology from <a href="http://www.nordicsemi.com/">Nordic Semiconductor</a>. It employs the famous nRF24 RF transceivers. Those chips are extremely popular in hobby electronic circles due to their low cost, reliability and ease of use. This is good news as it means that components and even ready made modules are easily available at low prices.
</p>
<p>
Like most 2.4GHz RF systems, the nRF24 can be configured in many different ways to achieve the functionality suitable for the application at hand. So the first task was to reverse engineer how exactly the RF system is set up in the HobbyKing RC system. This was quite some work as no documentation is available, but with a bit of preserverance we managed to find out all we need to know. We have <a href="https://github.com/laneboysrc/nrf24l01-rc/blob/master/doc/hkr3000-info.md">documented everything in detail</a>.
</p>
<p>
Building the actual receivers was straight-forward once we knew how the system works. We built two different flavours, each having strengths and weaknesses.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/15938071020" title="RX DIY front by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7547/15938071020_104bd9f138.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="RX DIY front"></a>
<br/>
<i>lpc812-nrf24l01 variant on the left, nrf24le1 variant on the right</i>
</p>
<p>
The first variant, we call it <i>lpc812-nrf24l01</i>, uses a commonly available NRF24L01+ module along with a <a href="http://www.nxp.com/products/microcontrollers/cortex_m0_m0/lpc800/LPC812M101FDH16.html">NXP LPC812 micro-controller</a>.
</p>
<p>
The NRF24L01+ module can be found for less than USD 1 per piece in qty 10 from online suppliers. The NXP LPC812 is a tiny 16-pin micro-controller that contains a 32-bit ARM Cortex-M0 core along with other useful hardware. Despite what it offers, it costs less than USD 2. It has a built-in ROM bootloader so that firmware can be flashed with an off-the-shelf USB-to-serial dongle -- no proprietary programming hardware needed. The toolchain is standard GNU GCC for ARM, hence very easy to program for.
</p>
<p>
The lpc812-nrf24l01 hardware requires a circuit board as the components come in a very small pin pitch package only. Compared to the second variant, the lpc812-nrf24l01 does not have a CPPM output, but it does have a UART <a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2012/12/pre-processor-for-diy-rc-light.html">preprocessour output</a> which achieves the same functionality.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/16099579936" title="RX DIY back by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8627/16099579936_d68c0d28fb.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="RX DIY back"></a>
<br/>
<i>lpc812-nrf24l01 variant on the left, nrf24le1 variant on the right</i>
</p>
<p>
The second variant is based on the NRF24LE1 chip. Hence we call it <i>nrf24le1</i>. This chip includes the same RF hardware as the NRF24L01, but also has a 8051-compatible micro-controller on board. This exact same chip is used in the HobbyKing receivers.
</p>
<p>
This receiver has a very low part count: NRF24LE1 module, voltage regulator, a few capacitors; done! It can be built on a breadboard if needed. Beside the UART <a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2012/12/pre-processor-for-diy-rc-light.html">preprocessour output</a> we also added a CPPM output. CPPM carries Steering, Throttle and CH3 information in a single wire.
</p>
<p>
The NRF24LE1 module is about USD 6, so more expensive than the NRF24L01. To flash the firmware one needs a special programmer, but there are lots of open designs available on the Internet. You can also get ready-made programmers in online shops for reasonable cost.
<br/>
There are different versions of NRF24LE1 modules for sale, so be careful to buy the right one if you want to use the PCB we provided.
</p>
<p>
The firmware of both receiver variants is in large parts identical. The major difference lies in the hardware aspects as the 8051 is quite a different animal than the NXP LPC812.
</p>
<p>
All hardware and firmware for both designes is Open-Source. Please find all related project documents on our <a href="https://github.com/laneboysrc/nrf24l01-rc">nrf24l01-rc Github page</a>.
</p>
<p>
The NRF24LE1 firmware included in this project can be compiled to be compatible with the HKR3000 and XR3100 hardware. However, since those receivers use the OTP version (NRF24LE1<b>G</b>) one would have to replace the chip with the NR24LE1<b>E</b> versions to be able to use it.
</p>
<p>
In case you have any question don't hesitate to
<a href="mailto:laneboysrc@gmail.com">contact us</a>!
</p>
LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-30300056123993176192014-08-20T17:05:00.001+08:002014-08-20T17:11:24.064+08:00DIY RC Light Controller with WS2812B<p>
In recent years LEDs are appearing on the market that contain a controller chip.
Currently the <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/products/1655">WS2812B</a> is highly
popular. It is a RGB LED that contains a simple chip inside. The LED is
controlled through a single pin using a
<a href="http://cpldcpu.wordpress.com/2014/01/14/light_ws2812-library-v2-0-part-i-understanding-the-ws2812/">serial shift-register-like
protocol</a>.
Multiple LEDs can be chained together; like a Christmas light.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/14977570712" title="P1070842 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5557/14977570712_dc6f7e221c.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="P1070842"></a>
<br/>
<i>The WS2812B LED on a breakout-board for convenient mounting.</i>
<br/>
<i>The WS2812B is an RGB LED with a built-in shift register like controller.
It has 4 pins: GND, Vdd, Data-in and Data-out. With only three wires going
from LED to LED, one can control each LEDs color and brigtness individually.</i>
</p>
<p>
Using such LEDs makes wiring up a vehicle very easy: one only needs to run 3 wires from
one LED to the next.
</p>
<a name='more'></a>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/14791366977" title="Wiring PL9823 in a RC car, by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3849/14791366977_2d6167a552.jpg" width="500" height="224" alt="Wiring PL9823 in a RC car"></a>
</p>
<p>
Also the control electronics becomes simpler as only
a simple low pin-count device is needed.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/14791314828" title="WS2812B light controller, by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5567/14791314828_801efd91f6.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="WS2812B light controller"></a>
<br/>
<i>The WS2812/PL9823 DIY RC Car Light Controller on the left, compared to the earlier design based on the TI TLC5940.</i>
<br/>
<i>Driving the WS2812/PL9823 LEDs requires only 4 cheap and easy to solder components!</i>
</p>
<p>
The WS2812B is extremely cheap too. When ordered in 100 pcs quantity from
China it is only slightly more expensive than a regular 5 mm white LED from
the local hobby shop.
</p>
<p>
The WS2812B are SMD LEDs in a 5 x 5 mm square case. This makes mounting them
in a traditional RC car light bucket, which is usually designed for 5 mm round
dome style LEDs, inconvenient.
</p>
<p>
However, the <a href="http://www.aliexpress.com/item/PL9823-F5-5mm-round-hat-RGB-LED-with-PD9823-chipset-inside-full-color-frosted/1707175958.html">PL9823</a>
has the same functionality as the WS2812B and comes in a standard 5 mm dome
encasing with four leads. The PL9823 is timing compatible with the WS2812B,
so both LEDs can be mixed in the same string of lights.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/14791366487" title="PL9823 LED by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3889/14791366487_b8572b973b.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="PL9823 LED"></a>
</p>
<p>
The PL9823 has few downsides over the WS2812B:
<ul>
<li>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2014/07/ws2812-and-pl9823-led-power-consumption.html">High power consumption</a>
of ~7-8mA even if the LED is off.
</li>
<li>
When power is applied the LEDs usually light up blue until they receive
valid data. The WS2812B stay off until data is received.
</li>
<li>
Data format is red-green-blue , while WS2812B is green-red-blue. This can be
easily dealt with in software though.
</li>
</ul>
</p>
<p>
When using the WS2812 it is advisable to not buy
the bare LED, but rather the ones that come on a tiny circuit board of ~10 x 10 mm.
This board already contains the bypass capacitor and convenient terminals
for soldering.
</p>
<p>
Unfortunately no such board seems to exist for the PL9823. It is possible to
solder wires directly onto the leads of the LEDs, but due to the narrow pitch it
is not fun. We have made a small break-out board, including bypass capacitor,
ourself.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/14977571072" title="P1070862 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5554/14977571072_1086cafced.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="P1070862"></a>
</p>
<p>
Compared to the light controller design using a TLC5940 chip, the narrow
operating voltage range of the WS2812B or PL9823 based light controller is
certainly a downside.. The WS2812B can operate between 3.5V to 5.3V, the PL9823
requires 4.5V to 6V. The PIC12F1840, a small 8-pin microcontroller, we are
using can operate between 2.5V and 5.5V.
This means that the light controller is best powered from a 5V BEC, or if the
BEC operates at 6V a diode must be used to drop the voltage to the safe range.
</p>
<p>
The LEDs also do not tolerate any reverse voltage. When <strong>+</strong> and <strong>-</strong> are
accidentally swapped they burn out immediately. Don't ask how we know...
</p>
<p>
A great feature of the WS2812B or PL9823 based light controller is that
the color of each LED can be programmed individually. In our
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/sets/72157645407162875/">Rally Legends Lancia Fulvia body shell</a>
the rear indicators and reversing lights are driven by a single LED, but by
programming the LED to output either white or orange light we were still
able to simulate reversing lights and indicators.
</p>
<p>
Unfortunately there does not seem to be any variant of the WS2812B or PL9823
that comes in a 3 mm dome factor, which is sometimes used in light buckets
of Tamiya or HPI. Maybe with such a body the TLC5940 based light controller
will be a better choice.
</p>
<p>
As with all our current DIY RC Light Controller iterations, firmware
and hardware files are available for <a href="https://github.com/laneboysrc/rc-light-controller">download on our Github page</a>.
Based on feedback from other users, we have also added pre-compiled HEX files for certain
configurations as well as improved the documentation.
</p>
<p>
In case you have any question don't hesitate to
<a href="mailto:laneboysrc@gmail.com">contact us</a>!
</p>
<hr />
<blockquote>
All articles in this series:<br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2012/07/diy-car-light-controller-for-3-channel.html">DIY car light controller for 3-channel RC</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2012/12/pre-processor-for-diy-rc-light.html">Pre-processor for the DIY RC Light controller</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2013/01/pre-processor-miniaturization.html">DIY RC Light controller pre-processor miniaturization</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2013/09/diy-rc-light-controller-update.html">DIY RC Light Controller update</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2014/08/diy-rc-light-controller-with-ws2812b.html">DIY RC Light Controller with WS2812B</a><br/>
</blockquote>
<hr />
LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-39598539577876269532014-07-23T12:12:00.001+08:002014-07-30T11:52:44.620+08:00WS2812 and PL9823 LED power consumption<p>
We are currently evaluating the popular shift-register programmable LEDs
of type <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/products/1655">WS2812B</a> and
<a href="http://www.aliexpress.com/item/PL9823-F5-5mm-round-hat-RGB-LED-with-PD9823-chipset-inside-full-color-frosted/1707175958.html">PL9823</a> for use in our
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2013/09/diy-rc-light-controller-update.html">DIY RC car light controller</a>.
</p>
<p>
The PL9823 is of particular interest to us as they are in the traditional
5mm dome type LED package and therefore can be installed easily in the
light buckets that come with many 1/10 scale RC car body shells.
</p>
<p>
From a software point of view the PL9823 is compatible with the widely
popular WS2812B, with the exception that the data format of the <strong>PL9823 is
red-green-blue</strong> while the <strong>WS2812B requires
green-red-blue</strong>.
</p>
<p>
The brightness of the PL9823 and the WS2812B seems comparable.
However, a downside of the PL9823 is that even if it is not lighting up, it
already consumes 7-8mA of current. In comparison, a WS2812B LED consumes less
than 1mA when it is off. The 7-8mA is still acceptable for use
in an RC car and won't hurt your run time much, but one still needs to take this
into account when desiging a system around those LEDs.
</p>
<p>
The chart below shows the current used by the LEDs when set to white with different
brightness values from 0 to 255 on the red, green and blue channels.
The PL9823 current usage is ~8mA higher than the
WS2812B at every level.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2hq4662ld4S1qOmFZDZqcFJlyMpYVjznHEwI7jucjIE1PGFUsKJGXvZYUDfX1KrCFxxU2UHrP2dfm8KmHNJ92ZFclpGnzfKevBLaqxOc866ILEqu0oeKDZL72wzzPhGmfI8bUUovKjNb_/s1600/ws2812-and-pl9823-supply-current.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2hq4662ld4S1qOmFZDZqcFJlyMpYVjznHEwI7jucjIE1PGFUsKJGXvZYUDfX1KrCFxxU2UHrP2dfm8KmHNJ92ZFclpGnzfKevBLaqxOc866ILEqu0oeKDZL72wzzPhGmfI8bUUovKjNb_/s400/ws2812-and-pl9823-supply-current.png" /></a></div>
<p>
Happy RC-ing!
</p>
LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-27663797395597070152014-05-09T10:18:00.001+08:002014-07-30T11:53:24.100+08:00Shorten your servo wires<p>
Most servos and speed controllers come with a wire that is too long
for the average RC car. The usual way to deal with this is to either
make a spiral by tightly wrapping the wire around a pencil, or by carefully
bundling the wire up and securing it with a zip-tie.
</p>
<p>
A better way, albeit requiring more effort, is to shorten the servo wire to the
exact length needed. The unused length of wire is just ballast, and also
restricts current flow.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMMFHckd-fT42CP5DucdWGEVpbdKgOdw1tTZJAHXw9XFyRsosAgq9wpsRa8_uZQJFKopS2BFzdwsQDIAOl_fpSxAO3VTDjHX_523eREvnhVS6hu1QXWeDUPnKUyVhQzg_nxSj1z7BMurn9/s1600/servo6-installed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMMFHckd-fT42CP5DucdWGEVpbdKgOdw1tTZJAHXw9XFyRsosAgq9wpsRa8_uZQJFKopS2BFzdwsQDIAOl_fpSxAO3VTDjHX_523eREvnhVS6hu1QXWeDUPnKUyVhQzg_nxSj1z7BMurn9/s400/servo6-installed.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
This post shows you how to shorten servo wires.
</p>
<a name='more'></a>
<blockquote style="color: red"><i><b>WARNING:</b> This and other DIY projects are purely "at your own risk". If you are at all uncomfortable or inexperienced working with electronics, please reconsider doing the job yourself.</i></blockquote>
<p>
One method of shortening the cable would be to replace the connector.
This works fine, but I found it is actually easier to shorten the cable <i><b>inside</b></i>
the servo. Crimping the tiny servo connectors is tricky at best and leads to
failure if not done 100% right.
</p>
<p>
First, measure the exact length of wire you need and add 1 cm or so to
compensate for the amount of wire that resides within the servo case.
</p>
<p>
Open up the servo. Usually there are four long screws, accessible from the bottom,
that hold the servo together. Ensure that you don't take off the top cover,
otherwise all the gears may fall out.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW7yu9OUgcsYPEGEGu2uzdFHL9EHmUPCxB6bjWXxWWPGF75URcJudmsdyHG1UN5-RVDrNom8GRF-3ng2I8FEAYfUXNoa5VdX4AhaWcV3CgyR-XtEpa2jqwDyohvUue_dKbYhNk9PNIvAFq/s1600/servo1-opened-cut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW7yu9OUgcsYPEGEGu2uzdFHL9EHmUPCxB6bjWXxWWPGF75URcJudmsdyHG1UN5-RVDrNom8GRF-3ng2I8FEAYfUXNoa5VdX4AhaWcV3CgyR-XtEpa2jqwDyohvUue_dKbYhNk9PNIvAFq/s400/servo1-opened-cut.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
There are several construction types of the servo electronics.
In the photo above we have a tiny PCB (circuit board) that floats in the servo
case, just held in place by all the wiring. Sometimes you have a PCB that covers
the whole surface and is directly soldered onto the motor. Other times the PCB
is soldered onto the potentiometer.
</p>
<p>
At this point study your particular servo and how you will approach changing the
wire. In the example servo it is very easy to change the wires. But on some
servos you may have to unsolder the potentiometer, which may be difficult. If
you are not comfortable at this stage because of your servos construction,
simply put the servo back together and keep the long wire. No point risking
damage to an expensive item.
</p>
<p>
Take note of where the different colored cable leads connect to. Every servo is
different. The simplest way is to make a photo for later reference.
</p>
<p>
Before you cut the wire at the point you marked earlier, slide the rubber
grommet that feeds the wire into the servo case past the point where you
intend to cut the wire.
</p>
<p>
Now comes the point of no return: cut the wire!
</p>
<p>
Cut the remaining piece of wire that is still soldered to the servo
close to the circuit board. We do this so that we can unsolder each wire
separately from the PCB, which makes this job much easier.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit1NtRUOrdbZTHUcAhUCPVXFiZ36j6bEX-X9hegVVbeMLdI4jCe271awRLMP-hDon2X3J9tqTYqY6jh0_qen1-90vlfb7EbOFoZx-BLoCQ7sjVVuxqeyH9eM7abbcTatjZDH3DYTZqCvFN/s1600/servo2-cut-short-to-unsolder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit1NtRUOrdbZTHUcAhUCPVXFiZ36j6bEX-X9hegVVbeMLdI4jCe271awRLMP-hDon2X3J9tqTYqY6jh0_qen1-90vlfb7EbOFoZx-BLoCQ7sjVVuxqeyH9eM7abbcTatjZDH3DYTZqCvFN/s400/servo2-cut-short-to-unsolder.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
With the old wires removed, the solder pads can be cleaned up. Strip the new
wire and tin it with fresh solder.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxPMLUgEPcZfgL7xKZk2qSbB4itMGawUfWaEhGxmacoWJN067bcOohitnLyjyXCTmx5D5PhZ-FBdPwjIIMHzbXMt-h7qqPdjj1jPe7l4jyIC-17-YDo8PQjcz5Ec_kwLu_BnfTVMm3BZXv/s1600/servo3-strip-tin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxPMLUgEPcZfgL7xKZk2qSbB4itMGawUfWaEhGxmacoWJN067bcOohitnLyjyXCTmx5D5PhZ-FBdPwjIIMHzbXMt-h7qqPdjj1jPe7l4jyIC-17-YDo8PQjcz5Ec_kwLu_BnfTVMm3BZXv/s400/servo3-strip-tin.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
Solder the new wire back in place. Ensure that the color coding and the way
of how the wires connect to the pad is exactly the same as it was originally.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVidenAryaF6bhVCaQTKAnbK-ebMqmwUGRs_-RRNsWHO6OX2omkMcDJ9raeTVHMZVddwsj_owKZmfhITEyO02Na3aVx-lWSYFqz-LAKx_C1clC8t9FGAFUAYqC6WoDwbup3iYyWU-oQDem/s1600/servo4-new-wires.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVidenAryaF6bhVCaQTKAnbK-ebMqmwUGRs_-RRNsWHO6OX2omkMcDJ9raeTVHMZVddwsj_owKZmfhITEyO02Na3aVx-lWSYFqz-LAKx_C1clC8t9FGAFUAYqC6WoDwbup3iYyWU-oQDem/s400/servo4-new-wires.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
Put the servo back together and test it. The whole process does not take more
than 10 minutes.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo63BZ4GL9NRzjuf9cRP-bRz8eky3n_EMU2pcbQFAXNwm45UfYBUEbyA9JMsSVfWPE0oXGhwN1QaBfG_E-rIVC9GkLAxu77pGkb1s8U64GmSmFBovWgmn8Gf5zUqquEHxeLINEQZXykg5P/s1600/servo5-final.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo63BZ4GL9NRzjuf9cRP-bRz8eky3n_EMU2pcbQFAXNwm45UfYBUEbyA9JMsSVfWPE0oXGhwN1QaBfG_E-rIVC9GkLAxu77pGkb1s8U64GmSmFBovWgmn8Gf5zUqquEHxeLINEQZXykg5P/s400/servo5-final.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
If you want to use the servo later in another car where you need a longer cable,
you can simply do the procedure again using a new servo cable cut from an
inexpensive servo extension lead.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMMFHckd-fT42CP5DucdWGEVpbdKgOdw1tTZJAHXw9XFyRsosAgq9wpsRa8_uZQJFKopS2BFzdwsQDIAOl_fpSxAO3VTDjHX_523eREvnhVS6hu1QXWeDUPnKUyVhQzg_nxSj1z7BMurn9/s1600/servo6-installed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMMFHckd-fT42CP5DucdWGEVpbdKgOdw1tTZJAHXw9XFyRsosAgq9wpsRa8_uZQJFKopS2BFzdwsQDIAOl_fpSxAO3VTDjHX_523eREvnhVS6hu1QXWeDUPnKUyVhQzg_nxSj1z7BMurn9/s400/servo6-installed.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
The same method can be applied on ESC, both servo wires and switch wires as can
be seen in the Tamiya TT-02 photo above.
</p>
<p>
Happy RC-ing!
</p>
LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-28510437617321442272014-03-16T16:07:00.001+08:002014-03-16T16:09:21.644+08:00Robbe FLF 1618 Part 1 - Unboxing<p>
One type of vehicle that was still missing from our RC fleet was
a truck. Tamiya has very nice models; we liked the Globe Liner a lot,
but the Mercedes delivery truck would have made more sense for us.
</p>
<p>One day we were looking at the offers on eBay and found an old kit from the
German manufacturer Robbe. A week later the auction ended and we had the
pleasure to win it. Another two weeks went by until we could hold our latest
wheeled toy in our hands:
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184946713/player/" width="500" height="228" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<a name='more'></a>
<p>
This is a Robbe Flughafenfeuerwehr (airport firetruck), kit no. 3625.
It is modeled after a Faun FLF 1618, which uses the fire extinguishing
technology of Magirus Deutz.
The original truck was stationed in Munich, Germany. Only two of the original
vehicles were ever made.
</p>
<p>
So far we have not been able to find out how old this kit actually is.
Apparently it is from the mid to late 80ies, so roughly 30 years old.
The documentation does not contain any date unfortunately, and the Robbe
website does not list the truck at all, not even in their archive section.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184836725/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="226" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
The kit box has the dimensions of a small flat-pack furniture. The final model
will be 71cm long, 18.5cm wide and 25cm tall. It is 1:15 scale -- the original
truck was a massive 10.8m long!
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13185117084/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
On the top where all the hardware pieces, wheels, water cannon parts, etc.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184945973/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="219" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
The kit has a few vacuum-formed parts; the tub on the left is the roof of
the cabin, and the long piece contains a battery box, a box for the exhaust
on the roof, a console for the cabin, and the mount for the blue light in the
rear of the truck. The separate piece on the top left is for the receiver.
</p>
<p>
The main chassis is a simple piece of U-shaped aluminum. A hole for the
motor and gearbox is already cut out, and holes for the suspension are already
drilled.
</p>
<p>
The orange piece with the brass rod is the drive shaft and gearbox. It is actually
from a boat -- Robbe was quite well known for their highly detailed model boats.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184945553/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe></p>
<p>
Even though the kit was exceptionally well packaged by the seller, the roof
got damaged in transport. But it looks like it can be fixed.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184834965/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe></p>
<p>
The kit is very old-school. The parts are flat ABS sheets, and you get a bunch
of tubes that you have to cut to length for support and joints. Now where did
we put that miter saw ...
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184834895/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
The decals were unprotected and got a bit dirty through the years. But they
are very simple and easy to replicate. Notice the fine details on the dials
for the dashboard.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184944703/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
This large sheet of thin, flexible plastic will be used to cut windows and
light covers.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13185115424/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
The pieces of the truck are ABS sheets, about 2mm thick, that are pre-cut.
The sheets have warped over time and may need some support and straightening.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184833975/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
<br>
<i>Close-up view of a stamped part</i>
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184833385/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="225" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
Most pieces have numbers stamped on them so that they can be easily identified
in the manual and plans.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13185114074/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="220" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
This is the base plate of the truck. The cut-out on the left is for the
water tank. The one on the right for the motor and gearbox.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184832745/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
At some point in time a bit of fluid got into the box and corroded the
steel rods. No big deal, easy to replace. Notice also all the dirt that
collected on the ABS sheets. Unfortunately it is not possible to share the
awesome vintage smell of this kit!
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184832385/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="328" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
On the bottom of the box was a quality control sheet and instructions for the
water cannon.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13185118154/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="368" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
The kit contained two large sheets of plans. This first one shows the steps
of assembly.
</p>
<p>
Very interesting are the schematics at the bottom-right. The larger one is
for the overall wiring of the vehicle, including diesel sound unit. The smaller
one is for working indicators. Two micro-switches are operated by cams that
are directly mounted onto the servo horn. Very simple!
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184946913/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="340" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
The large plan is replicated onto two overlapping sheets of paper. It shows
the truck in 1:1 scale, as well as cut-through diagrams. There is also a small
section devoted to the drive train and chassis.
</p>
<p>
Lets have a closer look at all plastic bags containing the various hardware:
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184941873/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="335" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
The motor looks like a standard size silver-can. It has the pinion
pressed on, which will make it a challenge should the motor need replacement.
The motor has "Made in Hong Kong" stamped on it!
</p>
<p>
There are eight leaf springs, which are quite stiff. The rear ones are different than the other six.
The axle housing is prepared to accept both input and output shafts and gears to drive multiple axles.
The gears are plastic and are known to break, especially when old.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184831455/in/photostream/player/" width="471" height="500" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
This bag contained the four horns, three blue warning lights, the steering wheel,
and the vertical bars that will be used to make the handrail on the roof of the truck.
These handrail pieces originate from a boat and need to be trimmed for using on the firetruck.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184940753/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="450" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
Here are the pieces of the water cannon. The small carton tube on the left
top is sealed with sticky tape and holds small screws and other hardware.
The water cannon can be turned as well as raised and lowered remotely.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184940623/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="329" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
The rims are very simple, but they have simulated bolt detailing.
The green piece will hold the gearbox. The front axles are already molded
into the plastic. The white gear goes into the differential.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13185111414/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="342" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
The plastic bag on the right contains a lot of screws, washers and nuts. We are
not sure whether the brown haze is due to rust or dried grease, but we
suspect the later.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184830395/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="290" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
The rubber still seems to be in good condition. It is very hard; I would
say even harder than the stock Tamiya CC01 tires.
Notice that they have numbers stamped into them. We have two "1", two "2",
and one each "4, "5, "7", "9". I assume those numbers indicate which part of a
particular mold they came out.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184940113/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="195" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
The main chassis is a U-shaped piece of aluminum. The cut-out is where the
motor and gearbox will sit in. There are holes in the side where the leaf
springs will mount to.
</p>
<p>
The gearbox and drive shaft on the bottom originate from a boat. The shaft is
running very smoothly in some kind of bearings.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184939623/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="258" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
These tubes made from ABS will be used to make the exhausts.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184829135/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="340" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
The instructions are in a nice A4 sized book that contains German, French,
English, Dutch, Italian and Spanish. This photo shows the English section,
which was clearly typed on a typewriter! No computers back then.
The instructions do not contain any drawings, they always refer to the plans.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184828615/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="356" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
The German section seems like it was laid out on a computer already back
them, or at least a professional typesetting. The first paragraph has
comparison of the model and the original.
</p>
<p align="center">
<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/13184937733/in/photostream/player/" width="500" height="302" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe>
</p>
<p>
Here is an overview of all the plastic sheets that come in the kit. Quite a
bunch of ABS planks!
</p>
<p>
Stay tuned, we will post updates throughout this challenging build!
</p>
LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-88232685345949163192013-12-10T11:29:00.000+08:002013-12-10T11:44:09.755+08:00Tamiya FF02 Alfa Romeo 156 Racing<p>
A few weeks ago we bought a cheap second hand TT-01 because LANE Boys Snr. wanted
to have a 10th scale touring car for relaxing in the local park.
Along with the TT-01 came another box: A semi-vintage FF02 Alfa Romeo 156.
The body shell had been used quite a bit and was heavily damaged. The
chassis was incomplete, but in excellent condition. The front uprights were
stripped where the king pin screws go in; turn buckles, servo mounts and
a drive shaft were missing, but the rest of the vehicle looked like the car
was never run before.
</p>
<p>
So we've set out to rebuild the car to its former glory.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/11248479285" title="Tamiya FF02 01 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3809/11248479285_b6c3d67fc7.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Tamiya FF02 01"></a>
</p>
<a name='more'></a>
<p>
According to what we could find on the Internet, the FF02 chassis was not very
popular. The chassis is not a stand-alone design, but the frame and gears come
straight from the M-03 and the suspension and other parts are reused from the TL-01.
There are only a few pieces that are FF02 specific: the extension piece
that makes the wheelbase 257 mm, and the rear body mount support.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/11248516244" title="Tamiya FF02 17 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5484/11248516244_4b70a15de2.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Tamiya FF02 17"></a>
<br/>
<i>The rear body mount support is one of the few FF02-specific pieces.</i>
</p>
<p>
Being based on two very popular Tamiya chassis means that it is still easy
to find parts for the car in the various Tamiya specialist online shops.
And the plastic sprues are very cheap too. Along the way we replaced the
bushings with ball bearings.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/11248518154" title="Tamiya FF02 11 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2862/11248518154_0369e65e22.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Tamiya FF02 11"></a>
<br/>
<i>The FF02-specific chassis extension between the receiver and the MSC converts the M-03 -based chassis to the standard 257 mm wheelbase.</i>
</p>
<p>
The build of the chassis couldn't be any simpler. Almost all screws are
3 x 10 mm self tappers. Moving parts are fastened with 3 x 14 step screws, and
the arms are held with screw pins. If you are looking for a first kit to build
for your child, those semi-vintage Tamiya kits like the M-03, TL-01 or this FF02
are certainly worth a look.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/11248517434" title="Tamiya FF02 13 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7401/11248517434_1916c2590a.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Tamiya FF02 13"></a>
</p>
<p>
The car came with the original 3-speed Manual Speed Controller (MSC) but
was missing the connection rod to the servo. We got a brand new MSC off eBay,
which turned out cheaper than if we would have bought the Z-bend tool
to make our own rod. And now we have a brand new spare MSC, along with
a new tube of the special switch grease that is needed to maintain it.
</p>
<p>
The resistor of the speed controller has a special mounting place in the
side of the chassis. Very tidy!
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/11248519076" title="Tamiya FF02 14 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7391/11248519076_45a89365d0.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Tamiya FF02 14"></a>
</p>
<p>
The Alfa Romeo 156 body is no longer produced. There are a few appearing on
eBay, but the sellers ask a lot of money for them. Our local Tamiya dealer in
Singapore however had two body sets still in stock, for the normal price one pays
for a shell here in Singapore.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/11248574563" title="Tamiya FF02 03 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2844/11248574563_7dd124ffc2.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Tamiya FF02 03"></a>
</p>
<p>
Being old stock means that the glue of the stickers is not very strong anymore.
If anyone has a tip of what type of glue to use to re-glue stickers that
are pealing off please let us know!
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/11248574403" title="Tamiya FF02 04 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2864/11248574403_a77e0b8bca.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Tamiya FF02 04"></a>
</p>
<p>
Staying true to the vintage, we are using an Acoms 27 MHz radio set, proudly
made in Malaysia, that we received with our Hummer.
It came with two servos and is in excellent working condition.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/11248477615" title="Tamiya FF02 08 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3726/11248477615_56e796e6f6.jpg" width="500" height="338" alt="Tamiya FF02 08"></a>
</p>
<p>
When you are used to driving modern RC cars, the experience of driving such
an old chassis with a mechanical speed controller is quite a treat. One needs
to adapt the driving style as there is no fine control of power.
Using the MSC also means that you give up brakes, which in turn forces you to
a smooth driving style through corners, and having the motor pull you out.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/11248520836" title="Tamiya FF02 07 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7326/11248520836_096342bdb2.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Tamiya FF02 07"></a>
</p>
<p>
The car tracks well and the front wheel drive pulls it nicely through corners
and chicanes. But take the throttle off while the car is turning and it
immediately swings the back around.
</p>
<p>
All in all, a fun addition to our ever-growing garage!
</p>
<p>
<i>PS: the car seems to have come with a dangerous virus, because shortly after
LANE Boys Snr. had to purchase a TL-01 kit new in box... Watch out!</i>
</p>
LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-76959080679520267372013-09-16T14:34:00.004+08:002021-05-25T15:59:43.612+08:00Make your own RC Winch Controller<p>
Want to control you 1/10 scale winch from your 3-channel RC system? Below you
can find instructions to build the necessary controller!
</p>
<a name='more'></a>
<blockquote style="color: red"><i><b>WARNING:</b> This and other DIY projects are purely "at your own risk". If you are at all uncomfortable or inexperienced working with electronics, please reconsider doing the job yourself.</i></blockquote>
<p>
If you need background information on the winch itself, have a look at
<a href="http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/scale-accessories/427896-integy-billet-machined-winch-teardown.html">this
excellent winch information on rccrawler.com</a>.
The only info we could not find there was the power consumption, so we measured it:
The stall current was 0.8A at 6V. The winch was able to pull about 1.5kg
at 6V. Not exactly much, but still should be able to get you out in most cases.
</p>
<p>
The winch controller connects to channel 3 of your receiver.
Three seconds after you apply power to the controller the winch motor will
play a short tune, indicating that it is ready.
The sound will only play if a valid input signal has been
detected. Note that the sound may be very faint, depending on your winch.
</p>
<p>
To arm the winch, change the position of the channel 3 switch on your
transmitter five times within a short period of times. The winch motor will
now play a different tune of rising sounds indicatiting that it is armed.
While armed, the winch motor will be braked electrically, so the winch
will not drift if you try to pull heavy loads.
</p>
<p>
To move the winch in one direction, change the position of the channel 3
switch once. To move the winch in the other direction, change the position
of the channel 3 switch twice within a short time.
</p>
<p>
To stop the winch simply toggle the position of the channel 3 switch.
</p>
<p>
When you are done winching, disarm the winch controller by toggling the channel 3
switch five times. A descending tune will play and all power will be removed
from the winch motor. Disarming the winch ensures that accidental bumps on the
transmitter do not turn the winch on and potentially damage something.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7b1IsNUYPq5pU8P8gIPM3BczfX3gqNaEOJkad_HjOeze36KbbRZBLiRrfeDd45kc5HPbG2OsZ1rhNRWcamgPVmPI8hWqp6rQtiRiSX5kpYwLZ2UWxp9sMXSW_LQwbT4S6iobT9dFBn3bm/s1600/P1280917.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7b1IsNUYPq5pU8P8gIPM3BczfX3gqNaEOJkad_HjOeze36KbbRZBLiRrfeDd45kc5HPbG2OsZ1rhNRWcamgPVmPI8hWqp6rQtiRiSX5kpYwLZ2UWxp9sMXSW_LQwbT4S6iobT9dFBn3bm/s400/P1280917.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
The winch controller can be powered via the RC receiver, or from a separate
supply connected to the pins labeled + an - on the ICSP connector. When external
power is used you need to remove the "0R" resistor.
</p>
<p>
The winch hardware is basically a H-bridge motor driver controlled from a tiny
microcontroller.
The main components are a <a href="http://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/Devices.aspx?dDocName=en549758">Microchip PIC12F1840</a>
micro-controller, two dual N- and P-Channel power FETs <a href="http://www.fairchildsemi.com/pf/FD/FDS9934C.html">Fairchild FDS9934C</a>,
and a 3.3V LDO (<a href="http://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/Devices.aspx?dDocName=en028178">Microchip MCP1702</a>, <a href="http://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/Devices.aspx?dDocName=en530838">1703</a> or similar).
</p>
<p>
The schematics, firmware and a PCB layout are available <a href="https://github.com/laneboysrc/rc-winch-controller">on Github</a>.
<a href="https://github.com/laneboysrc/rc-winch-controller/blob/master/electronics/rc-winch-controller-oshpark-rev1.zip">Pre-rendered Gerber files</a> for the PCB can be found in the electronics folder.
The PCB can be <a href="https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/ZSDXrn79">ordered directly from OSHPark</a> in a minimum quantity of three.
</p>
<p>
<a href="https://github.com/laneboysrc/rc-winch-controller/blob/master/firmware/rc-winch-controller-servo.hex">A pre-built HEX</a> file for programming the micro-controller is also available
on Github.
</p>
<p>
The winch controller can also be linked up to our <a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2013/09/diy-rc-light-controller-update.html">DIY RC Light Controller</a>.
</p>
<p>
If you do build the controller please give us a shout-out! Happy recovery!
</p>
LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-43017967238999771992013-09-16T14:34:00.001+08:002016-04-12T20:30:59.737+08:00DIY RC Light Controller update<p>
It has been a while since be blogged about our
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2012/07/diy-car-light-controller-for-3-channel.html">Light controller</a>.
In the meantime we have equipped more than ten cars with our custom
electronics.
</p>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/ljf41gerEWU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<p>
In this post we describe the changes we did along the way to the electronics
and the firmware.
</p>
<a name='more'></a>
<blockquote style="color: red"><i><b>WARNING:</b> This and other DIY projects are purely "at your own risk". If you are at all uncomfortable or inexperienced working with electronics, please reconsider doing the job yourself.</i></blockquote>
<p>
The light controller is designed to be controlled from a simple 3-channel
RC car radio controller, such as the HobbyKing HK-310 or the FlySky GT3B.
On those transmitters channel 3 is a simple on/off toggle switch.
</p>
<p>
To get realistic scale lighting, the light controller supports the following
functions:
<ul>
<li>Parking, Low-beam, Fog lamps and High-beam can be switched on/off manually using CH3</li>
<li>Brake and Reverse lights are automatically controlled by monitoring the
throttle channel. Since the original release the brake lights now automatically
turn on for a short, random time when the throttle goes to neutral.</li>
<li>Combined tail and brake light function in a single LED through controlling
the brightness of the LED.</li>
<li>Indicators only come on when you want to. You have to stay in neutral for
1 seconds, then hold the steering left/right for one second before they engage.
This way normal driving does not trigger the indicators.</li>
<li>Hazard lights can be switched on/off using CH3</li>
<li>Programmable servo output designed to drive a steering wheel or a figures head</li>
<li>Programmable servo output for a 2-speed gearbox</li>
<li>Various customizable light patterns for a roof light bar</li>
<li>Automatic centre and end-point adjustment for all channels</li>
</ul>
</p>
<p>
Compared to the original design, we upgraded the components used. The
micro-controller is now a more modern
<a href="http://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/Devices.aspx?dDocName=en546902">Microchip PIC16F1825</a>
in a small 14 pin
package.
</p>
<p>
The LED driver
is a <a href="http://www.ti.com/product/tlc5940">TI TLC5940</a>.
This driver supports 16 constant-current outputs. The
current on each output can be programmed in 64 steps, allowing for fine
brightness adjustments without the need to run high-frequency PWM signals
through your RC car.
</p>
<p>
16 outputs is enough for most light installations. If more lights are needed
several light controllers can be cascaded -- though this function is not
implemented in the software at this time.
</p>
<p>
In the original design with only 8 outputs, the LEDs had to be wired up in series.
Since white and blue LEDs require voltages of 3V or more, the receiver voltage
is not sufficient to drive two LEDs in series. We solved this in the original
design by use of a DC-DC boost converter, generating around 8V. This DC-DC
converter increased the cost of the controller significantly.
</p>
<p>
With the additional outputs available in the new design there is no need
for the DC-DC converter anymore, each LED can be driven directly from a
single output, so the 5V or 6V that your receiver runs with is sufficient.
</p>
<p>
With the light controller needing to have access to throttle, steering and
CH3 of your receiver, wiring may become an issue -- especially because
the light controller will be mounted on the body, while the receiver
is on the chassis and the two need to be separated often.
</p>
<p>
We solved this by adding a tiny 8-pin micro-controller into our receivers.
We call it a pre-processor, refer to our <a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2013/01/pre-processor-miniaturization.html">earlier blog post</a>.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8426233755/" title="Pre-processor in a GT3B receiver, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8369/8426233755_9f5ee5c4b4.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="P1260552"></a>
</p>
<p>
The pre-processor reads the three channels and outputs them as serial data
using UART signalling. Usually the signal line of the battery connector
on the receiver is unused, so we occupy it for connection to the light
controller. Now only a single servo extension wire runs from the
receiver to the body. Clean and easy to use.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/9769498004/" title="20130720-1105-36 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7301/9769498004_61cf8ea2a4.jpg" width="500" height="235" alt="20130720-1105-36"></a>
</p>
<p>
The light controller design is very simple, just two chips, a voltage
regulator, two resistors and a few bypass capacitors. It can therefore
easily be built on prototyping boards.
</p>
<p>
We also designed a PCB for SMD components. The board measures 30 x 23 mm, about
the same size as a small 3-channel receiver.
</p>
<p>
The Eagle files for the <a href="https://github.com/laneboysrc/rc-light-controller/tree/master/mk2-tlc5940-pic16f1825/electronics">schematics and layout as well as rendered Gerber files</a>
are available on Github. You can order the PCB directly from <a href="http://oshpark.com/">OSHPark</a> for very little money.
A word or warning though: the SMD version of the TLC5940 comes in
a package with very small pin pitch of 0.65mm. It requires good
soldering skills.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/9769284031/" title="P1280910 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5321/9769284031_7576b9dbe0.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="P1280910"></a>
</p>
<p>
The firmware is also available in <a href="https://github.com/laneboysrc/rc-light-controller">source code on Github</a>.
It is written in assembler using the open source <a href="">gputils</a> tools.
You will find there the specific light implementation for all cars we have
equipped so far, which should serve as a template for your own
customizations.
</p>
<p>
In case you have any question don't hesitate to
<a href="mailto:laneboysrc@gmail.com">contact us</a>!
</p>
<hr />
<blockquote>
All articles in this series:<br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2012/07/diy-car-light-controller-for-3-channel.html">DIY car light controller for 3-channel RC</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2012/12/pre-processor-for-diy-rc-light.html">Pre-processor for the DIY RC Light controller</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2013/01/pre-processor-miniaturization.html">DIY RC Light controller pre-processor miniaturization</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2013/09/diy-rc-light-controller-update.html">DIY RC Light Controller update</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2014/08/diy-rc-light-controller-with-ws2812b.html">DIY RC Light Controller with WS2812B</a><br/>
</blockquote>
<hr />
LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-91953234520392899952013-08-24T21:56:00.001+08:002015-08-23T13:39:51.057+08:00 Tamiya TEU-104BK mod for LiPo cut-off<p>
Many Tamiya kits available on sale today still come with the TEU-104BK ESC.
This ESC is perfectly fine for running brushed motors, but does not contain
a BEC and its low voltage cut-off is too low for LiPo batteries.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcbY7e83L6A0KpI3sY_zpFaNsE2kXkxsbz_KrNirVdNU7V7AJRRpqxK-VGqYiQvzPK1BqWES86fYx2aHLC-CbK542PhsgH7-B7ZWCO15Pg3biHeI6lqSigspWbqpVwqEyN-TWEakoEnym4/s1600/teu-104bk-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcbY7e83L6A0KpI3sY_zpFaNsE2kXkxsbz_KrNirVdNU7V7AJRRpqxK-VGqYiQvzPK1BqWES86fYx2aHLC-CbK542PhsgH7-B7ZWCO15Pg3biHeI6lqSigspWbqpVwqEyN-TWEakoEnym4/s400/teu-104bk-1.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
The missing BEC is easily dealt with: either use "high voltage" compatible
servo and receiver, or a cheap external BEC.
</p>
<p>
Fortunately it is also easy to modify the ESC to have a LiPo compatible voltage
cut-off -- assuming you are able to solder a tiny surface-mount resistor.
</p>
<a name='more'></a>
<blockquote style="color: red"><i><b>WARNING:</b> This and other DIY projects are purely "at your own risk". If you are at all uncomfortable or inexperienced working with electronics, please reconsider doing the job yourself.</i></blockquote>
<p>
By default the voltage cut-off is set to 4.5V. We measured this by connecting
the ESC to a lab-power-supply, slowly lowering the voltage until the
ESC cut off and started to flash the LED.
</p>
<p>
For a 2S LiPo 4.5V is way below the voltage that damages the battery, we rather
need a cut-off at 6V or slightly higher.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHOui48k-HiuNrc8Z-cX-X47r7tqyamQ9tvnN3gk1gLS3Xy-udKbn5x9T7hyphenhyphenjKS_PkM19gHW7vKWM3631Zrte6I79Cg2X9Sa20s2JXzW2sCrKFKR2pyiplpGNd-gmeqKpRo-_CDqvx7OGw/s1600/teu-104bk-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHOui48k-HiuNrc8Z-cX-X47r7tqyamQ9tvnN3gk1gLS3Xy-udKbn5x9T7hyphenhyphenjKS_PkM19gHW7vKWM3631Zrte6I79Cg2X9Sa20s2JXzW2sCrKFKR2pyiplpGNd-gmeqKpRo-_CDqvx7OGw/s400/teu-104bk-3.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
The ESC implements the voltage cut-off through its microcontroller. A resistor
divider comprising of R1 and R2 on the PCB divide the battery voltage down
to a level that can be measured by the microcontroller. R2 is 10 KOhm, and R1
is 27 KOhm. By lowering the resistor value of R2 we can increase the threshold
for cut-off from 4.5V to 6.2V. We can lower the resistor by adding a 20 KOhm
resistor in parallel to R2. This way we don't have to remove components from the
ESC.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglXmNBlfigo9SRn6aauaIjxTXJq8n6mP6b0jL5qLVyUz7txHBdo4nuQ7sBp4n1E9p8Id8bgK-vK5VwQYbMyndpS9i-eeDFd0f6hcTck6dw6hW0NiAK-KsWcJ2Ig-_6lBLfUcGMxA9KI6ie/s1600/teu-104bk-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglXmNBlfigo9SRn6aauaIjxTXJq8n6mP6b0jL5qLVyUz7txHBdo4nuQ7sBp4n1E9p8Id8bgK-vK5VwQYbMyndpS9i-eeDFd0f6hcTck6dw6hW0NiAK-KsWcJ2Ig-_6lBLfUcGMxA9KI6ie/s400/teu-104bk-4.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
The components used in the ESC are tiny 0402 SMD parts. But due to the way the
board is layout it is possible to use a larger 0805 SMD 20 KOhm resistor, which is easier to handle by humans.
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvTMQoTR2noQPrDEuYWGnxAleUQBJhVmaF9gWQ2-STZJ5rHoHQWr9gDGS8pSzNGTY1sN0KjRuMcJsKqL9hlSQwmEKIRNPHlFolUeMOf6tNIkQHU1gr5iiX0sGGrF8y4WABFusTPkU-LekD/s1600/teu-104bk-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvTMQoTR2noQPrDEuYWGnxAleUQBJhVmaF9gWQ2-STZJ5rHoHQWr9gDGS8pSzNGTY1sN0KjRuMcJsKqL9hlSQwmEKIRNPHlFolUeMOf6tNIkQHU1gr5iiX0sGGrF8y4WABFusTPkU-LekD/s400/teu-104bk-5.jpg" /></a></div>
<p>
We laid the 20 kOhm resistor onto R2 and soldered it to the bottom pad. The
other side of the resistor we soldered on the bottom pad of R1, which is
directly connecting to R2.
</p>
<p>
Depending on your soldering skills it does not take more than 10 minutes to
modify the ESC. With the modification the ESC shuts off at just the right time
when your LiPo batteries deplete.
</p>
<blockquote style="color: green"><i>Update Aug 2015: the LiPo cut-off mode is now also available for the new <a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2015/08/tamiya-tble-02s-mod-for-lipo-cut-off.html">Tamiya TBLE-02S ESC</a></i></blockquote>
LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-86094781675537320332013-06-15T20:45:00.001+08:002013-06-15T20:49:27.588+08:00Tamiya Hummer restoration Part 4 - Detailing<p>
It took a while as other projects were interrupting, but now our Tamiya M1025 Hummer is finished and ready for the trail.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/9046557059/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1280135 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5332/9046557059_477a2c82ba.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1280135"></a>
</p>
<a name='more'></a>
<p>
We found the original decal sheet on eBay for a low price, so we put on the original stickers. There are not many of them anyway.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/9046560207/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1280096 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7393/9046560207_5e251f81ac.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1280096"></a>
</p>
<p>
The headlamps, tail lights, indicators and UN signs were made by a kind member of the <a href="http://sgcrawlers.forumotion.com/">SG Crawlers</a>. We made the lamps based on reference photos found on the Internet.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/9046559121/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1280103 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7450/9046559121_d9d59d1ed8.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1280103"></a>
</p>
<p>
Small details like the reflectors as well as the engine cover retainers were painted with a brush. Working on those fiddly details is very relaxing and ideal for those rainy evenings.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/9048787952/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1280090 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7451/9048787952_cab1194a05.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1280090"></a>
</p>
<p>
One of the biggest concerns was to show off the details on this nice Tamiya hard-plastic shell. The solution was simple: We traced all recesses gently with a sharp pencil and then sealed the body with flat clear spray paint. It makes all the small rivets, recesses and panel lines stick out nicely without drawing attention to it.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/9048785714/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1280117 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2827/9048785714_5d8e953102.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1280117"></a>
<p align="center">
<p>
When putting the body on the chassis we realized that there was simply not enough space for the D-shackle mount we had built. So sadly we removed them.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/9048784772/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1280131 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3728/9048784772_5f3f871e93.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1280131"></a>
</p>
<p>
The mud flaps came from a damaged toy digger. There is one detail still missing: windscreen wipers!
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/9048785382/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1280121 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2879/9048785382_8f6606a7f8.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1280121"></a>
</p>
<p>
We are chuffed to have this marvel of RC car running again. The UN Peace Mission Hummer will be riding the trails of Singapore once more.
</p>
<hr />
<blockquote>
All articles in this series:<br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2012/12/our-tamiya-m1025-hummer.html">Our Tamiya M1025 Hummer</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.sg/2013/03/tamiya-hummer-restoration-part-1.html">Part 1 - Dismantling and cleaning</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.sg/2013/04/tamiya-hummer-restoration-part-2.html">Part 2 - Body work</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.sg/2013/04/tamiya-hummer-restoration-part-3.html">Part 3 - Chassis</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2013/06/tamiya-hummer-restoration-part-4.html">Part 4 - Detailing</a><br/>
</blockquote>
<hr />LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-14749935015575411852013-04-14T20:05:00.003+08:002013-06-15T20:49:37.525+08:00Tamiya Hummer restoration Part 3 - Chassis<p>
With the body in good shape it was time to rebuild the chassis of our
Tamiya M1025 Hummer. Like all Tamiya kits one begins with the differentials.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8644520038/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270494 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8106/8644520038_221b840e65.jpg" width="500" height="415" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270494"></a>
</p>
<a name='more'></a>
<p>
The original kit contained a ball differential for the back and a gear
differential for the front wheel.
</p>
<p>
For better durability on the trail we replaced the rear diff with a locked
gear differential and bought a second gear differential for the front.
</p>
<p>
The following photo shows the ball differential (known as Manta Ray ball diff)
on the left, and the (locked) gear diff on the right.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8644519984/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270504 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8541/8644519984_a6068e2e4b.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270504"></a>
</p>
<p>
To lock the gear diff we used the locking plastic parts from a CC-01 gear set
that we had spare. The inside gears are identical between the TA01 and the
CC-01, but the outer gear is much larger on the CC-01.
</p>
<p>
With the diffs built next was assembly of the rear gear box. The housing is
new as the original was so brittle that it brakes apart upon touching.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8643424355/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270509 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8540/8643424355_cfa046dce5.jpg" width="500" height="352" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270509"></a>
</p>
<p>
We used a GPM Racing metal motor mount to hold the Mabuchi RS-540SH we
salvaged from another Tamiya kit that we upgraded to brushless.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8643424291/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270515 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8529/8643424291_3da047a0c4.jpg" width="500" height="374" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270515"></a>
</p>
<p>
The large gear in the next photo is basically the spur gear, which also drives
the bevel gear that brings power to the front axle. The smaller idler gear is
identical front and rear.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8644519774/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270517 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8542/8644519774_903a1f108c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270517"></a>
</p>
<p>
The rear gearbox has been closed up and the upper suspension arms have been
mounted.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8643424159/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270520 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8114/8643424159_cd628051cd.jpg" width="500" height="397" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270520"></a>
</p>
<p>
Next up is the rear suspension. All parts were re-used from the original car.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8643424057/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270525 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8118/8643424057_310c55b384.jpg" width="500" height="155" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270525"></a>
</p>
<p>
With the suspension attached to the gearbox it is ready to connect to the chassis.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8643423979/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270530 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8384/8643423979_5bf1f07554.jpg" width="500" height="356" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270530"></a>
</p>
<p>
The front gearbox is simpler than the rear. The new gear differential was installed.
</p>
<p>
Notice that the out-drives here in the front have a ring serving as
identification marker, while the rear out-drives don't have this marker.
The out-drives are different front and rear, so it is important to pay
attention to this.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8644519526/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270533 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8394/8644519526_c9f15aec96.jpg" width="500" height="275" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270533"></a>
</p>
<p>
The idler and bevel gears are greased up and installed, ready to close the gearbox.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8644519428/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270538 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8250/8644519428_60fe868c33.jpg" width="500" height="352" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270538"></a>
</p>
<p>
A new front shock tower has been installed together with the original
suspension upper arms.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8644519346/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270544 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8261/8644519346_fa150d160f.jpg" width="500" height="409" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270544"></a>
</p>
<p>
Like in the back we re-used all original parts of the suspension as they were
in good condition. The only difference is that we upgraded the plastic
bushings to ball bearings throughout the vehicle.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8644519274/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270546 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8255/8644519274_2d66d5ea99.jpg" width="500" height="163" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270546"></a>
</p>
<p>
In contrast to the rest of the suspension, the front lower arms are mounted
with this U-shaped metal rod instead of special pin-screws.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8644519222/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270549 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8398/8644519222_639196010c.jpg" width="500" height="330" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270549"></a>
</p>
<p>
With both axles being assembled the brand new chassis got the electronics
installed.
</p>
<p>
We had an original Tamiya Servo TSU-03 lying around, perfect for this car.
The ESC is an old TEU-101BK that had shoddy wiring, which got replaced. Since
the TEU-101BK does not have a BEC I added a UBEC between the
ESC/Receiver and battery compartment.
</p>
<p>
All wires were trimmed to the correct size to keep it compact and neat.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8644518732/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270590 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8539/8644518732_a726a22b07.jpg" width="500" height="301" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270590"></a>
</p>
<p>
Next up is the steering assembly. It is a simple bell crank with a metal bar
between the pivots. The pivots hinge on simple step screws.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8644444985/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270596 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8384/8644444985_26660db8f4.jpg" width="500" height="262" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270596"></a>
</p>
<p>
The steering is very compact and low as the chassis has buggy origins.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8645542176/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270600 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8125/8645542176_e23445eff3.jpg" width="500" height="405" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270600"></a>
</p>
<p>
The rear axle and gearbox gets bolted onto the chassis with four screws.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8645542090/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270601 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8265/8645542090_ae015de859.jpg" width="500" height="308" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270601"></a>
</p>
<p>
The front gearbox bolts on in a similar fashion but has an one more screw
holding it to the chassis. Note the thin drive shaft towards the front.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8645541966/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270605 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8540/8645541966_04ba9efa1e.jpg" width="500" height="273" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270605"></a>
</p>
<p>
The horizontal bar above the shock tower is the front body mount. The body has
two hooks that go under that bar. The front bumper captures the U-shaped
suspension hinge pin.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8645541732/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270613 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8541/8645541732_3821a07e4d.jpg" width="500" height="251" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270613"></a>
</p>
<p>
Bottom view of the completed chassis. The last thing to do is soldering the
motor wires.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8644444283/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270619 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8544/8644444283_7e81cce383.jpg" width="500" height="280" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270619"></a>
</p>
<p>
The completed chassis with battery installed. Looks like new, smells like new,
drives like new.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8645541476/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270623 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8106/8645541476_6283d218a1.jpg" width="500" height="246" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270623"></a>
</p>
<p>
I am really pleased how it turned out. A test drive at home showed that it runs
very smooth and quiet.
</p>
<p>
The chassis was extremely easy to build compared to other Tamiya kits like the DB-01 or M-06. Almost all screws on the chassis are 3 x 10 mm self tapping screws, unlike more modern kit that use a large diversity of machine screws and self tapping screws.
</p>
<p>
Now only the detailing and finishing touches are left.
</p>
<hr />
<blockquote>
All articles in this series:<br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2012/12/our-tamiya-m1025-hummer.html">Our Tamiya M1025 Hummer</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.sg/2013/03/tamiya-hummer-restoration-part-1.html">Part 1 - Dismantling and cleaning</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.sg/2013/04/tamiya-hummer-restoration-part-2.html">Part 2 - Body work</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.sg/2013/04/tamiya-hummer-restoration-part-3.html">Part 3 - Chassis</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2013/06/tamiya-hummer-restoration-part-4.html">Part 4 - Detailing</a><br/>
</blockquote>
<hr />LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-64590591000551345642013-04-13T09:30:00.002+08:002013-06-15T20:50:08.167+08:00Tamiya Hummer restoration Part 2 - Body work<p>
With all parts stripped and cleaned, it is now time to build the vehicle
up again. First we were dealing with the body.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8588486963/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270402 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8245/8588486963_540cce9290.jpg" width="500" height="362" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270402"></a>
</p>
<a name='more'></a>
<p>
Our Hummer body was in a good condition given its use and age, but on the front
there was the tow plate missing.
</p>
<p>
To create a replacement we extracted the front view of the vehicle from the
user manual and scaled it to exact size of the body on the computer before
printing. I then cut it out from paper and glued it on a piece of styrene as
cutting reference.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8644520552/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270426 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8121/8644520552_3c3063ae2b.jpg" width="500" height="418" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270426"></a>
</p>
<p>
A support plate was cut from 1mm styrene that holds the tow plate to the body.
Since this piece will not be seen it was cut rather quick and dirty.
</p>
<p>
The shackle mounts are from a scrap piece of plastic that had holes already
drilled into it. The shackles are 3 mm D-shackles from a local hardware store.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8644520480/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270433 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8110/8644520480_ea4d402de2.jpg" width="500" height="288" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270433"></a>
</p>
<p>
The finished tow plate mounted onto the body. Looks close to original.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8644520382/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270436 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8402/8644520382_7d216a0e9e.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270436"></a>
</p>
<p>
The back of the car had three holes that needed filling. It was quite tricky
to do to get a decent finish.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8644520316/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270444 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8387/8644520316_65950c1e76.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270444"></a>
</p>
<p>
We managed to obtain a new sprue of body parts on eBay which included all front
lights, the top hatch as well as the air intake. We only used the front lights
which were quite damaged on our body.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8644520232/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270475 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8252/8644520232_a36506ddcb.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270475"></a>
</p>
<p>
Ready to paint. With all accessories in place the first job was to spray the
inside with flat black.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8644520136/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270493 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8398/8644520136_f890ebd5ee.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270493"></a>
</p>
<p>
The body has been primed and painted with Tamiya Matt White TS-27.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8643423415/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270576 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8266/8643423415_c15cb47eca.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270576"></a>
</p>
<p>
The paint turned out ok but far from perfect as I rushed too much. Now it is a
matter of highlighting all those awesome body details.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8643423313/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270577 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8247/8643423313_9638397032.jpg" width="500" height="218" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270577"></a>
</p>
<p>
Despite spending a large amount of time to close three holes on the back of
the body, they are still visible.
</p>
<p>
I think that the Tamiya Basic Putty that I used is just not the right thing
for the job as it affects the styrene. Or more likely: I am just doing it wrong.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8643423235/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270578 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8261/8643423235_ba98836615.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270578"></a>
</p>
<p>
The rims were brand new and turned out flawlessly.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8644518830/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270583 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8396/8644518830_ca5a28a191.jpg" width="500" height="464" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270583"></a>
</p>
<p>
Up next: rebuilding the chassis!
</p>
<hr />
<blockquote>
All articles in this series:<br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2012/12/our-tamiya-m1025-hummer.html">Our Tamiya M1025 Hummer</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.sg/2013/03/tamiya-hummer-restoration-part-1.html">Part 1 - Dismantling and cleaning</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.sg/2013/04/tamiya-hummer-restoration-part-2.html">Part 2 - Body work</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.sg/2013/04/tamiya-hummer-restoration-part-3.html">Part 3 - Chassis</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2013/06/tamiya-hummer-restoration-part-4.html">Part 4 - Detailing</a><br/>
</blockquote>
<hr />LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-49653297381962407972013-03-26T22:01:00.003+08:002014-04-14T19:14:51.951+08:00Tamiya Hummer restoration Part 1 - Dismantling and cleaning<p>
Having finished our <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/sets/72157630971793270/">XR311</a>,
it is now time to get its brother, the
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2012/12/our-tamiya-m1025-hummer.html">Tamiya M1025 Hummer</a>,
back on the trail.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8241360262/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1250259 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8204/8241360262_9c77a2d66b.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1250259"></a>
</p>
<a name='more'></a>
<p>
While the original paint job was very nicely done, LANE Boys Snr. is not a
fan of camouflage and so the boys decided that this Hummer is going to be
a white UN peace mission vehicle.
</p>
<p>
All the accessory parts like windows, roof hatch, light and air intake are
screwed to the body, hence easy to remove.
</p>
<p>
The plastic parts were stripped with ordinary paint thinner, which worked
surprisingly well. It was literally a matter of brushing the paint off.
One can still see the decals that were applied to the car a long time ago.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8588486963/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270402 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8245/8588486963_540cce9290.jpg" width="500" height="362" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270402"></a>
</p>
<p>
The gears are still in very good condition. The ball differential is also
working perfectly. Everything has been cleaned and is ready for re-installation.
</p>
<p>
The motor is an original "Johnson" motor. We will replace it with a
new Mabuchi RS540SH that we have from another Tamiya kit.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8589587658/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270406 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8252/8589587658_80e78720de.jpg" width="500" height="467" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270406"></a>
</p>
<p>
All metal hardware has been cleaned and sorted. We were able to polish rust
away nicely.
</p>
<p>
There are only a small number of different hardware components: most chassis
screws are 3 x 10 mm self tappers, all body screws 2.6 x 10 mm. That's basically
it.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8589587110/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270418 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8112/8589587110_c423e36788.jpg" width="500" height="309" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270418"></a>
</p>
<p>
The plastic parts are in a very mixed condition.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8588486739/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270408 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8251/8588486739_5c61623309.jpg" width="500" height="331" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270408"></a>
</p>
<p>
The parts on the left, which are the chassis, gear box housing, motor mount
and shock towers (parts tree A and B) are in a sorry state. The plastic has
hardened over the years in is extremely brittle. The parts literally break
in your hands!
</p>
<p>
The hubs and carriers on the right (parts tree C) are also made from a hard
plastic, but they are still strong and don't need replacement.
</p>
<p>
The parts in the middle are a soft and flexible plastic (parts tree D and E).
They have survived well and will go back into the restored car.
</p>
<p>
We ordered a full set of sprues for the car anyway -- just in case.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8588486623/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270414 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8367/8588486623_c7298cc8cd.jpg" width="500" height="271" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270414"></a>
</p>
<p>
More goodies: two pairs of shocks, new rims, a metal motor mount, and ball
bearings (replacing plastic bushings).
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8589587238/" title="Tamiya Hummer P1270416 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8104/8589587238_26776a38ed.jpg" width="500" height="489" alt="Tamiya Hummer P1270416"></a>
</p>
<p>
We also ordered a gear set as we will use a gear differential both in
front and the rear and keep the fragile ball diff off the trails.
</p>
<p>
Stay tuned for further progress updates!
</p>
<hr />
<blockquote>
All articles in this series:<br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2012/12/our-tamiya-m1025-hummer.html">Our Tamiya M1025 Hummer</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.sg/2013/03/tamiya-hummer-restoration-part-1.html">Part 1 - Dismantling and cleaning</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.sg/2013/04/tamiya-hummer-restoration-part-2.html">Part 2 - Body work</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.sg/2013/04/tamiya-hummer-restoration-part-3.html">Part 3 - Chassis</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2013/06/tamiya-hummer-restoration-part-4.html">Part 4 - Detailing</a><br/>
</blockquote>
<hr />LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-8525586504878805262013-03-09T13:21:00.000+08:002013-03-09T13:21:41.802+08:00Custom jumpsuit for a scale RC driver figure<p>
Our <a href="http://sgcrawlers.forumotion.com/t921-lane-boys-rc-s-tamiya-xr311-build">Tamiya XR311</a>
is getting close to being finished. One of the last remaining jobs is painting
the driver figure that comes with the kit.
</p>
<p>
Since I made the steering wheel in the XR311 movable I need the arms of the
driver to follow the steering wheel. I first thought of adding hinges to
the plastic, but abandoned the idea. I made hinges before for our Dingo
and I am not pleased with how it turned out.
</p>
<p>
Studying how others solved the issue I found that real cloth provides the
flexibility to keep the hands on the steering wheel. So I needed to make a
suit for my driver.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8538842827/" title="Tamiya XR311 P1270028 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8096/8538842827_87124bc1df.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Tamiya XR311 P1270028"></a>
</p>
<a name='more'></a>
<p>
I found a <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/gijoe1964/3447793567/">jumpsuit pattern for a 1:6 scale G.I. Joe figure on Flickr</a>.
Since the XR311 is 1:12 scale I figured that the pattern would fit if I reduced its size by 50%.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8539950526/" title="Tamiya XR311 P1270004 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8243/8539950526_6b5ec2f831.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Tamiya XR311 P1270004"></a>
</p>
<p>
After sewing together the main pieces I did a test fit:
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8538843767/" title="Tamiya XR311 P1270010 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8100/8538843767_790201cef6.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Tamiya XR311 P1270010"></a>
</p>
<p>
The legs fit well, but the upper body was too short. So I cut new pieces of
cloth, but this time I increased the upper body area by 1cm. Now it fits well:
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8539950188/" title="Tamiya XR311 P1270012 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8101/8539950188_088611ee07.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Tamiya XR311 P1270012"></a></p>
<p>
After sewing the main parts of the suit together I made one arm.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8538843453/" title="Tamiya XR311 P1270014 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8241/8538843453_03f8649110.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Tamiya XR311 P1270014"></a>
</p>
<p>
It was a good idea to make a hem straight away on the sewing machine. I
neglected to do that on the feet and had to do it manually at a later
point, which doesn't look as good as the machine stitches.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8538843259/" title="Tamiya XR311 P1270019 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8238/8538843259_9b85b15611.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Tamiya XR311 P1270019"></a>
</p>
<p>
Test fitting the arm: looks great! The second arm went smooth as well.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8539949716/" title="Tamiya XR311 P1270022 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8521/8539949716_d6c1545298.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Tamiya XR311 P1270022"></a>
</p>
<p>
With the major parts of the suit complete up next was the tedious task
of cleaning up all the hems. This had to be done with hand sewing
as there is no way to get such small pieces in the machine. I've never
sown before, but after watching a few YouTube videos it was a breeze.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8538842935/" title="Tamiya XR311 P1270025 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8522/8538842935_e44ba29bda.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Tamiya XR311 P1270025"></a></p>
<p>
Test fit: The upper body looks a bit too wide for the small figure due
to the shoulders on the suit being too wide. Some adjustment needed...
I narrowed the back of the suit a bit and now everything fits better.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/78037110@N03/8538842827/" title="Tamiya XR311 P1270028 by LANE Boys RC, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8096/8538842827_87124bc1df.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Tamiya XR311 P1270028"></a>
</p>
<p>
I am very pleased with the outcome, it was a difficult job and my first attempt at sewing.
All in all it took me 5 hours to make this jumpsuit.
</p>
LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5343171297649866845.post-69144998347956738552013-03-07T15:02:00.001+08:002013-03-07T15:02:07.786+08:00RC electronics Part 5 - Drift car power consumption<p>
In part 5 we look at the electric power consumption of a 1/10 scale 4WD drift
car.
</p>
<p>
The test subject is our Tamiya TT01D. We obtained the car second hand quite
a while ago. It was originally an <i>Expert Built</i> set but has been
substantially modified by the previous owner. It has the obligatory aluminium
propeller shaft, a carbon fiber upper deck, a front one-way differential, sway
bars, and a HobbyWing EZRun 60A brushless system with a 5.5T motor. The tires
are well-worn HPI T-Drift. A 4600mAh 2S 30C LiPo provided energy for the car.
</p>
<a name='more'></a>
<h2>Verifying KV</h2>
<p>
First we verified the KV of the motor using the Eagle Tree Systems
<a href="http://www.eagletreesystems.com/micropower/micro.htm">eLogger</a> with
the brushless motor sensor.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM8aRojhcIr8oVdsi_KwzRgY3xm0L1lAGE-sf1AfISklamG3f9Hgp-zIWUhoigKpdvBZvzX-pMup5p6gvPxjy7XrXynlCjZPyPz_yv_D9yru6eUwxyBvkCcrvT0DxGOzF5cW5dzOfuxWjZ/s1600/drift+Max+RPM+-+RPM.png" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM8aRojhcIr8oVdsi_KwzRgY3xm0L1lAGE-sf1AfISklamG3f9Hgp-zIWUhoigKpdvBZvzX-pMup5p6gvPxjy7XrXynlCjZPyPz_yv_D9yru6eUwxyBvkCcrvT0DxGOzF5cW5dzOfuxWjZ/s320/drift+Max+RPM+-+RPM.png" /></a>
</p>
<p>
We held the car in the air while pushing the throttle to full speed.
The motor achieved a staggering 49500 RPM. At 8.2V this corresponds exactly
to the 6000 KV that is specified for this motor.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAoS8suYvMP34pUdlbdckUogaYxR1friqGMzN2dnGCjBoODabAn7Gov2YoejuJ3M4nxZsPnOlduq_Z_aaqeO3x0qDm7j12PaXrNdEXSVEblZduGx3xiAbN9kcLcpCeO0FiUDKqdOilnAeW/s1600/drift+Max+RPM+-+Amps.png" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAoS8suYvMP34pUdlbdckUogaYxR1friqGMzN2dnGCjBoODabAn7Gov2YoejuJ3M4nxZsPnOlduq_Z_aaqeO3x0qDm7j12PaXrNdEXSVEblZduGx3xiAbN9kcLcpCeO0FiUDKqdOilnAeW/s320/drift+Max+RPM+-+Amps.png" /></a>
</p>
<p>
The current was just above 6A. No-load power consumption is therefore 50W.
</p>
<h2>Drifting</h2>
<p>
The test took place on the tiled surface of an HDB public shelter.
The smooth surface makes for nice, flowing and easy to control drifts.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTMKH8GhUPPNl7XLYFxDUNe5zXHIRVvOhwFAkplrgsQr2TlBuDKKa42xZn614aMAqHws3GUWOhBok8KcvTny8L8yFIbGJMf430Z1EzGoh6gAr8epT2xvr1jZ5p-1Sy_FA4xIeqInoLN8k7/s1600/drift+-+Amps.png" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTMKH8GhUPPNl7XLYFxDUNe5zXHIRVvOhwFAkplrgsQr2TlBuDKKa42xZn614aMAqHws3GUWOhBok8KcvTny8L8yFIbGJMf430Z1EzGoh6gAr8epT2xvr1jZ5p-1Sy_FA4xIeqInoLN8k7/s320/drift+-+Amps.png" /></a>
</p>
<p>
This slippery surface is very gentle on the power. The data logger
was full after about 35 minutes of drifting. During this time the current rarely went above
8A, a single peak of 14.6A was recorded.
</p>
<p>
The average current during the session was below 3A. It takes only a measly
20W to power this drift car on average!
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ib3ypxFFhhlPP-odpQ7V07EWUbTIR4ldh_N2AwQ6zVC3vumR8lGRhO5UA6g9A7odiAwJm3fLFKe10dV5W1Ny1pqgVoQdIDvzG2fPVSZdUfhoAtdoypnEMZ5hyQQNevkP2B-Fm822k-o2/s1600/drift+-+RPM.png" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ib3ypxFFhhlPP-odpQ7V07EWUbTIR4ldh_N2AwQ6zVC3vumR8lGRhO5UA6g9A7odiAwJm3fLFKe10dV5W1Ny1pqgVoQdIDvzG2fPVSZdUfhoAtdoypnEMZ5hyQQNevkP2B-Fm822k-o2/s320/drift+-+RPM.png" /></a>
</p>
<p>
With the standard TT01 gearing the motor RPM stays below 18000 RPM most of the time.
Sometimes peaks of about 26000 RPM occur. Note that the peaks above 30000 RPM
in the chart above are measurement glitches that the logger produces
when the brake function of the ESC is applied.
</p>
<p>
The chart shows that the 5.5T motor is overkill for a drift car.
An 8.5T would work just fine. This is also confirmed by looking at the throttle
input:
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGwHDaRl7_GTBohVrMuV3qVPIuz0bXYKjYDBTDS48oZcoV-TpP_QB-qv4WUNrJ1YNpRK2wjfb30uVO9dmirDjpdmScsqLs2wdWPF12X5_mTL0TsUYPzBPIOi2NwvNrc0yMjR2WoES673Mv/s1600/drift+-+Throttle.png" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGwHDaRl7_GTBohVrMuV3qVPIuz0bXYKjYDBTDS48oZcoV-TpP_QB-qv4WUNrJ1YNpRK2wjfb30uVO9dmirDjpdmScsqLs2wdWPF12X5_mTL0TsUYPzBPIOi2NwvNrc0yMjR2WoES673Mv/s320/drift+-+Throttle.png" /></a>
</p>
<p>
During the whole session it was never necessary to apply more than 50% of the
forward throttle range.
</p>
<h2>A closer look at slow and fast drifting</h2>
<p>
We usually build our drift course by placing a couple of plates on the floor. Depending on how you choose your course you can either drift tightly around individual plates, or do larger manoeuvres around
the whole area.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmyU_EhwCI_VvJW4Ie9OSG3-2Rtc3n_D5GAu2gL5ot7FKiXKInexocPnY7lwcO7rf5M2P0CKSj24wBp8Punf9c4rYeAqKTG7gZsbIuuwP0kbfXwH1XCCfGnlvvkllxVCDI4xu9sjrviKez/s1600/drift+slow+and+fast+-+RPM.png" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmyU_EhwCI_VvJW4Ie9OSG3-2Rtc3n_D5GAu2gL5ot7FKiXKInexocPnY7lwcO7rf5M2P0CKSj24wBp8Punf9c4rYeAqKTG7gZsbIuuwP0kbfXwH1XCCfGnlvvkllxVCDI4xu9sjrviKez/s320/drift+slow+and+fast+-+RPM.png" /></a>
</p>
<p>
Tight manoeuvres require less wheel spin, roughly by a factor of two compared
to large circles.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhflC2Y1ZYgkqbJSZ4JmyhC417p4gYtBTZ5wnWw1FpdljLCLg1r9Om4JzmATRSZ0m1qDzGd1Vhrnzz-xQuBGSrbKpOf5jMNDLnnwsaFF3SriukQzQCPgy9ZhxIX9-6c1PbfieyHeTtyBwbs/s1600/drift+slow+and+fast+-+Throttle.png" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhflC2Y1ZYgkqbJSZ4JmyhC417p4gYtBTZ5wnWw1FpdljLCLg1r9Om4JzmATRSZ0m1qDzGd1Vhrnzz-xQuBGSrbKpOf5jMNDLnnwsaFF3SriukQzQCPgy9ZhxIX9-6c1PbfieyHeTtyBwbs/s320/drift+slow+and+fast+-+Throttle.png" /></a>
</p>
<p>
Interestingly the throttle input looks almost identical to the RPM measurement.
</p>
<p align="center">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWozoFHxQauCU4QlRsIwdGh8A8YlQF56RyJJGZQ90Om3RodO_pcw4h-Sdp0_GG-kRe2y-uuxr18S1NlGJEbSQGqAJwxraTgUW7OZQPFEHwjYjLmawjAXAbYY-mQx_rgLL_vQHOsZD_k77P/s1600/drift+slow+and+fast+-+Amps.png" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWozoFHxQauCU4QlRsIwdGh8A8YlQF56RyJJGZQ90Om3RodO_pcw4h-Sdp0_GG-kRe2y-uuxr18S1NlGJEbSQGqAJwxraTgUW7OZQPFEHwjYjLmawjAXAbYY-mQx_rgLL_vQHOsZD_k77P/s320/drift+slow+and+fast+-+Amps.png" /></a>
</p>
<p>
The effect on the current consumption is not pronounced though. While the peaks
are taller in the high speed section, the average current is only
affected minimally.
</p>
<h2>Conclusion</h2>
<p>
Drifting is very gentle on the electronics. A decent 4000 KV motor is
sufficient, and there is no need for a high-amp ESC or a high-discharge
capable battery. A 4600mAh battery lasts more than an hour of drifting
in this TT01.
The concentration of the driver usually wears out quicker ...
</p>
<hr />
<blockquote>
All articles in this series:<br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2013/02/rc-electronics-part-1-tenth-scale-4wd.html">Part 1 - Tenth scale 4WD Buggy power consumption</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2013/02/rc-electronics-part-2-battery-charging.html">Part 2 - Battery charging</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2013/03/rc-electronics-part-3-tamiya-cc01-power.html">Part 3 - Tamiya CC01 power consumption</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2013/03/rc-electronics-part-4-full-metal-scale.html">Part 4 - Full metal Scale Land Rover</a><br/>
<a href="http://laneboysrc.blogspot.com/2013/03/rc-electronics-part-5-drift-car-power.html">Part 5 - Drift car power consumption</a><br/>
</blockquote>
<hr />LANE Boys RChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00624539870383140160noreply@blogger.com1